Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
With its mofettes, solfataras, steam-holes, mud-geysers, sulphurous
lakes, its treacherously opening and closing chasms,[25] last but
not least its notorious valley of death,[26] the Diëng is the region
above all others in volcanic Java, of miracles that expound the
antagonism between fratricide life and death on our turbulent planet,
which continuously prepares for or recovers from spasms of generative
destruction. One of these spasms, on a grander scale than usual in
the short span of human history, was the eruption of Krakatoa in
1883; which raised and submerged islands, shaking and altering the
Straits of Soonda, a resultant tidal wave razing the towns of Anyer
and Cheringin. The Diëng, some three hundred miles off, responded
faithfully, as might have been expected, the Kawah Kidang roaring and
splashing mud furiously, the wall of the crater-lake Chebong cracking
in several places, so that part of its water, instead of flowing
through the old channel, now seeks its way through the fissures thus
created, remunerative tobacco-fields being transformed into swamps. Such
disasters preach an eloquent sermon on the text, hewn in stone by the
builders of the temples here erected to Siva as Kala, the Overthrower,
and, transmitted with the wisdom of ages by a later religion, happily
expressed by the German poet:
_Was hilft es Menschen seyn, was liebe Blumen küssen,
Wann sie sind schöne zwar, doch balde nichts seyn müssen?_[27]
The news that a troop of strolling players had arrived, dispelled,
however, ideas of that sort, unpalatable truth never proving successful
against the pleasurable excitement of the moment. They were going to
perform at the house of the reputedly wealthiest man of the plateau
and not the less highly considered by his neighbours because caught
redhanded, not once but repeatedly, in handling the forbidden, as I
heard afterwards. Living near one of the enclosures traditionally
associated with the pyres which were extinguished when the Hindu
priests deserted their altars, he gave the _ton_ to the upper ten of
Diëng society, “disporting like any other fly” unterrified by daily
manifestations of cosmic potency. Surrounded by his _ganadavatas_,
gods of the second rank, he welcomed me to the show. Mounted on sham
horses, the actors delighted their audience with a sham battle which
soon became a single combat between two valiant knights, encouraged by
masked clowns, funny yet exquisitely graceful in their movements: the
_savoir vivre_ of this people is perfectly matched with their elegance
of carriage and correctness of speech and innate propriety of demeanour.
The comedians’ stage-properties did not amount to much and their
inventive genius shone the more brilliantly: a tiger (for a hunt of his
highness our common uncle[28] followed the joust) was improvised with
jute bagging and two pieces of wood, representing the jaws, snapping
ferociously, perhaps a compliment to the _orang wolanda_ present, his
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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