Monumental JavaScheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
History
Monumental Java
Scheltema, J. F. (Johann Friedrich )
Indonesia -- Antiquities; Java (Indonesia) -- Antiquities; Monuments -- Indonesia -- Java
biped equivalent in native estimation, as already remarked. Or an
allusion may have been intended to local events: not longer than a week
before, Paman had tried to force Wielandt’s stable, cooling his wrath,
when baffled, on Sarama’s pups.
So much for my recollections of the histrionic exercises on the Diëng,
and now about the temples! If Thomas Horsfield, in his narrative of the
tour he made through the island between 1802 and 1807, mentioned the
so-called Buddha-roads, it was Raffles who sent Cornelius, Lieutenant in
the Corps of Engineers, to survey the architectural remains on the Diëng
plateau proper, which the earlier traveller had not visited. According
to the official account of his mission, kept in the library of the
Museum of Antiquities at Leyden and still unpublished, he found whatever
was standing of some forty groups, covered with clay and volcanic ashes
up to nearly a fourth of the original height. Captain Baker, also
commissioned by Raffles, worked three weeks on the Diëng after his
examination of the ruins at Prambanan and the Boro Budoor. Junghuhn,
whose observations date from 1838 to 1845, speaks of more than twenty
temples in a wilderness of marshy woods. The woods have disappeared, the
marshes hold their own and of his twenty temples only eight are left in
a recognisable shape: five of them belong to the Arjuno group, including
the so-called house of Samār; the best preserved is the Wergodoro or
Bimo; the Andorowati and Gatot Kocho crumble away even faster than the
rest. It has already been remarked that the Diëng structures belong
to the oldest in the island, the _hanasima_ inscription, transferred
to Batavia, furnishing a record of the Diëng civilisation which goes
back to 731 Saka (A.D. 809). They are interesting to the Indian
antiquary, wrote Fergusson, “because they are Indian temples pure and
simple, and dedicated to Indian gods ...; what (they) tell us further
is, that if Java got her Buddhism from Gujerat and the mouths of the
Indus, she got her Hinduïsm from Telingana and the mouths of the
Kistnah.... Nor are (they) Dravidian in any sense of the word. They
are in storeys, but not with cells, nor any reminiscences of such;
but they are Chalukyan.” Later learning accepts this statement only
with cautious reserve. Whether Chalukyan or not, though, it is plain
even to the unlearned that, erected to Siva, the Mahadeva worshipped
principally in his character of Bhatara Guru, the divine teacher, to his
_sakti_ Doorga and their first-born Ganesa, these temples, radiating the
all-soul in the fierce glare of the midday sun, unfolding their secrets
in the mellow moonbeams of night, partake fully of their mysterious
surroundings, are integral portions of the ground they occupy, as
may be said of all ancient Javanese buildings. Men of great power of
imagination, deep-reasoning sentiment, the builders of these marvels,
working their thoughts up to the sky, rescued for us the essence of
the Diëng’s past existence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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