We parted at that, and did not meet again until the next afternoon, when
I joined her and her party at the summer hotel. Together we journeyed
down to Sunburst.
It was the height of the salmon-fishing season. Sunburst lay cloyed
among the products of field and forest and stream. At Viking one got the
impression of a strong pioneer life, vibrant, eager, and with a touch of
Arcady. But viewed from a distance Sunburst seemed Arcady itself. It
was built in green pastures, which stretched back on one side of the
river, smooth, luscious, undulating to the foot-hills. This was on one
side of the Whi-Whi River. On the other side was a narrow margin, and
then a sheer wall of hills in exquisite verdure. The houses were of
wood, and chiefly painted white, sweet and cool in the vast greenness.
Cattle wandered shoulders deep in the rich grass, and fruit of all kinds
was to be had for the picking. The population was strangely mixed.
Men had drifted here from all parts of the world, sometimes with their
families, sometimes without them. Many of them had settled here after
mining at the Caribou field and other places on the Frazer River.
Mexican, Portuguese, Canadian, Californian, Australian, Chinaman, and
coolie lived here, side by side, at ease in the quiet land, following a
primitive occupation with primitive methods.
One could pick out the Indian section of the village, because not far
from it was the Indian graveyard, with its scaffolding of poles and brush
and its offerings for the dead. There were almost interminable rows of
scaffolding on the river's edge and upon the high bank where hung the
salmon drying in the sun. The river, as it ambled along, here over
shallows, there over rapids and tiny waterfalls, was the pathway for
millions and millions of salmon upon a pilgrimage to the West and North--
to the happy hunting grounds of spawn. They came in droves so thick at
times that, crowding up the little creeks which ran into the river, they
filled them so completely as to dam up the water and make the courses a
solid mass of living and dead fish. In the river itself they climbed the
rapids and leaped the little waterfalls with incredible certainty; except
where man had prepared his traps for them. Sometimes these traps were
weirs or by-washes, made of long lateral tanks of wicker-work. Down
among the boulders near the shore, scaffoldings were raised, and from
these the fishermen with nets and wicker-work baskets caught the fish as
they came up.
We wandered about during the afternoon immensely interested in all
that we saw. During that time the party was much together, and my
conversation with Mrs. Falchion was general. We had supper at a quiet
little tavern, idled away an hour in drinking in the pleasant scene; and
when dusk came went out again to the banks of the river.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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