Americans -- China -- Biography; China -- Social life and customs -- 1912-1949; Franking, Mae M.
I followed Chan-King's minute instructions concerning travelling
arrangements, and Wilfred and I had a pleasant voyage. Early one morning
I looked through the port-hole and saw about me the murky waters of the
Yangtze, alive with native craft, while dimly through the mist loomed
the fortifications of Woosung. Already the tender was waiting, and soon
we were aboard, moving rapidly up the mouth of the river. The mist
cleared, green banks arose on each side, and through distant trees
gleamed red brick buildings like any at home, side by side with the
white-plastered walls and tip-tilted roofs of China. In that long ride,
Shanghai grew upon me gradually, a curious mixture of the known and the
unknown, tantalizing me with the feeling that I had seen all this before
and ought to remember it better. In the water about me, steamer, launch
and battle-ship mingled with native junk, river-barge and house-boat.
Suddenly in the waiting group on the customs jetty I saw my husband. In
another moment we had drawn alongside the wharf and he was in the tender
beside me, greeting me in the formally courteous manner he deemed suited
to public occasions. Taking Wilfred in his arms, he drew me up the steps
and to a waiting carriage.
Here again was the confused mingling of the strange and the familiar:
clanging tram-cars, honking motor-cars, smooth-rolling rickshaws,
creaking wheel-barrows and lumbering, man-drawn trucks; dark
coolie-faces under wide straw hats, gently bred features beneath pith
helmets, black, bearded countenances below huge, gay turbans; a
bewildering jumble of alien and English speech.
Even in Chan-King I found it. He was wearing American dress, his face
had not changed, the tones of his voice were the same, but he was
speaking Chinese, and his directions to the _mafoo_ were to me a
meaningless succession of sounds.
But, when he was beside me in the carriage and the horses had started,
he turned suddenly and smiled straight into my eyes. Then, Shanghai,
Borneo or the North Pole--all would have been one to me. I asked no
questions; I was with my husband and child, driving rapidly towards the
home prepared for me. I had come home to China.
II
IN SHANGHAI
My first impressions of Shanghai are a blur. My husband and I drove
rapidly along the Bund, over Garden Bridge, which might have been any
bridge in America, past the Astor House, which was very like any
American hotel, and then along the Soochow Creek, which could be only in
China.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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