My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga HillsJohnstone, James, Sir
History
My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
Johnstone, James, Sir
Manipur (India) -- Description and travel; Naga Hills (India) -- Description and travel
I left England with my wife on November 13th, 1873, and after an
uneventful voyage, reached Bombay, December 9th. We proceeded at once
to Calcutta, where some of my old servants joined me, including two
bearers, Seewa and Keptie, wild Bhooyas from the Cuttack Tributary
Mehals, whom I had trained, and who had been with me for years in
all my wanderings, in that wild territory. Thanks to the kindness of
my friends the Bernards (now Sir C. and Lady Bernard), we spent only
a day at an hotel, and remained under their hospitable roof till we
left Calcutta.
My old appointment in Keonjhur had been abolished, and I had to wait
till another was open to me. I had several interviews on the subject
with the Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, Sir G. Campbell. Finally it
was decided that I should go to Assam (then about to be made into a
Chief Commissionership) and act as Political Agent of the Naga Hills,
while the permanent official--Captain Butler--was away in the Interior,
and subsequently on leave. I knew a large part of the district well,
as one of the most malarious in India, and when asked if I would take
the appointment, said, "Yes, I have no objection, but just hint to
the Lieutenant-Governor that unless he wants to kill me off, it may
be better policy to send me elsewhere, as the Medical Board in London
said, I must not go to a malarious district, after the experience
I have had of it in Keonjhur." The Secretary conveyed my hint, and
when I next saw him, said, "The Lieutenant-Governor says, that is
all stuff and nonsense." Later on Sir G. Campbell asked if my wife
would go with me. I quietly replied that she would go anywhere with me.
Finally, on December 30th, we left Calcutta, and after a night in the
train, embarked in one of the I. G. S. N. Co.'s steamers at Goalundo,
for Nigriting on the Burrhampooter, where we had to land for the Naga
Hills. The steamers of those days, were not like the well-appointed
mail boats now in use. The voyage was long, the steamers uncomfortable,
and the company on board anything but desirable. All the same, the
days passed pleasantly, while we slowly wended our way up the mighty
river, amid lovely and interesting scenery all new to my wife, to
whom I pointed out the different historic spots as they came in view.
We halted at Gowhatty for the night, and early in the morning I swam
across the river for the second time in my life, a distance of about
three miles, as the current carried me in a slanting direction.
At last we reached Nigriting, and were landed on a dry sandbank five
or six miles from the celebrated tea gardens of that name, and the
nearest habitations. Fortunately, I had brought a tent and all things
needful for a march; and my servants, well accustomed to camp life,
soon pitched it and made us comfortable, and my wife was charmed with
her first experience. We had a message of welcome from Mr. Boyle,
of Nigriting Factory, and the next day went to his house in canoes,
whence we set out for Golaghat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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