My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills — John Shaqi
My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga HillsJohnstone, James, Sir
History
My Experiences in Manipur and the Naga Hills
Johnstone, James, Sir
Manipur (India) -- Description and travel; Naga Hills (India) -- Description and travel
It was to Nigriting that I was carried for change of air nearly
twelve years before, when, in April, 1862, I was desperately wounded
in an encounter with a large panther near Golaghat, where I had been
stationed. I then lived for a week or so in a grass hut on a high
bank, and the fresh air made my obstinate wounds begin to heal. Thus it
happened that all the people knew me well, and I was long remembered by
the name of "Baghé Khooah" literally the "tiger eaten," a name which I
found was still familiar to every one. Loading our things on elephants,
and having a pony for my wife, and a dandy (hill litter) in case she
grew tired, we set off for Golaghat, and had a picnic luncheon on the
way. How delightful are our first experiences of marching in India,
even when we have, as in this case, to put up with some discomfort;
the cool, crisp air in the morning; the good appetite that a ten-mile
walk or ride gives; the feeling that breakfast has been earned, and
finally breakfast itself; and such a good one. Where indeed but in
India could we have a first-rate meal of three or four courses, and
every dish hot, with no better appliances in the shape of a fireplace,
than two or three clods of earth? Often have I had a dinner fit for
a king, when heavy rain had been falling for hours, and there was no
shelter for my men, but a tree with a sheet thrown over a branch.
We breakfasted at a place called "Char Alleé" and the march being
long (nearly twenty miles), the sun was low long before reaching
Golaghat. As we passed some road coolies, I began a conversation with
the old Tekla (overseer) in charge, and asked him if he could get me
a few oranges. He said, "Oh no, they are all over." He then asked me
how I came to speak Assamese so well. I said, "I have been in Assam
before." He said, "Oh yes, there have been many sahibs in my time,"
and he named several; "and then long ago there was a 'Baghé Khooah'
sahib, I wonder where he is now?" I looked at him and said, "Ami Baghé
Khooah" (I am the Baghé Khooah). The old man gazed equally hard at
me for a moment and then ran in front of me and made a most profound
obeisance. Having done this, he smilingly said, "I think I can find
you some oranges after all," and at once ran off, and brought me some
for which he refused to take anything. The good old man walked about a
mile farther before he wished me good-bye; and my wife and I went on,
greatly pleased to find that I was so well remembered.
We did not get to Golaghat till long after dark, and pitched our tent
on the site of the lines of my old detachment, which I had commanded
twelve years before. What a change! Trees that I had remembered as
small, had grown large, and some that were planted since I left,
already a fair size.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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