China; Chinese -- United States -- Education; Education -- China; Yung, Wing, 1828-1912
We reached Suchau on the morning of the 9th of November without meeting
with any difficulty or obstacles all the way, nor were we challenged
either by the imperialists or rebels, which went to show how loosely and
negligently even in time of war, things were conducted in China. On
arriving at the Lau Gate of the city, we had to wait at the station
where tickets were issued to those who went into the city and taken from
those who left, for Suchau was then under martial law. As we wished to
go into the city to see the commandant, in order to get letters of
introduction from him to the chiefs of other cities along our route to
Nanking, we had to send two of our party to headquarters to find out
whether we were permitted to enter. At the station, close to the Lau
Gate, we waited over an hour. Finally our party appeared accompanied by
the same messenger who had been deputed by the head of the police to
accompany them to the commandant’s office. Permission was given us, and
all four went in. The civil officer was absent, but we were introduced
to the military commandant, Liu. He was a tall man, dressed in red. His
affected hauteur at the start was too thin to disguise his want of a
solid character. He became very inquisitive and asked the object of our
journey to Nanking. He treated us very kindly, however, and gave us a
letter of introduction to the commandant in Tan Yang, and furnished us
with passports all the way through the cities of Woo Sik and Cheong
Chow. In the audience hall of Commandant Liu, we were introduced to
four foreigners--two Americans, one Englishman, and a French noble. One
of the Americans said he was a doctor, the Englishman was supposed to be
a military officer, and the Frenchman, as stated above, claimed to be a
nobleman. Doubtless they were all adventurers. Each had his own ax to
grind. One of the Americans had a rifle and cartridges for sale. He
asked quite an exorbitant price for them and they were summarily
rejected. The Frenchman said he had lost a fortune and had come out to
China to make it up. Our missionary companions were much pleased after
being entertained by Liu in hearing him recite the doxology, which he
did glibly. Towards evening, when we returned to our boat, he sent us a
number of chickens and a goat to boot. We were thus amply provisioned to
prosecute our journey to Tan Yang. We left Suchau on the morning of the
11th of November. On our arrival at Woo Sik, our passports were examined
and we were very courteously treated by the rebels. We were invited to
dinner by the chief in command. After that he sent us fruits and nuts,
and came on board himself to see us off. We held quite a long
conversation with him, which ended in his repeating the doxology.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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