Brooke, Margaret, Lady, 1849-1936; Queens -- Malaysia -- Sarawak -- Biography; Sarawak (Malaysia) -- Description and travel
After remaining some weeks in the Rejang, and when peace had been
restored amongst the disturbed people, who began to resume work on
their farms, the Rajah and I left Sibu and our kind hosts, Mr. Skelton
and Mr. Low, for a trip to the Batang Lupar. We embarked once more on
the _Heartsease_, and steamed down the left-hand branch of the Rejang,
when, on leaving the mouth of the river, we steered due south, passing
the mouths of the Kalakah and Saribas Rivers. We had, alas for me,
about four hours of sea to negotiate before we found smooth water
again, so that I did not see much of the coast. The sea was supposed
to be calm, but a hateful swell drove me to the cabin. I went on deck
after we had passed over the bar of the Batang Lupar. I could not
believe it to be a river; the shores were so far off, with a stretch
of four miles of water between them, and this width continued all down
the straight reach as far as Lingga.
Lingga was a desolate place. Its Fort was built on a mud-bank. A small
Malay village, its houses built on stilts, lined the banks, and were
surrounded by cocoa-nut palms, which palms are said to flourish in
brackish water. The present Rajah made this place his home for one
year, moving from thence in 1854. He resided in this Batang Lupar
district for about ten years, whence he led many punitive expeditions
into the interior. The old pirate chief, Rentap, who committed so many
crimes, murdered so many people, and prevented peace from settling
on the land, was entrenched with his miscreant tribe in neighbouring
mountains, and was repeatedly attacked by the present Rajah, who
finally dislodged him from his fastnesses, and rendered him harmless
by his many defeats. It was from the banks of the Batang Lupar River
that the Rajah’s friendly Dyaks, sometimes numbering twelve to fourteen
thousand men, were gathered together to follow their white chief in his
many attacks against the pirate’s Fort. For years the present Rajah is
said never to have slept securely on account of the incessant alarms
and attacks on innocent people by this inveterate head-hunting pirate,
who, in spite of a very advanced age, managed to work so much havoc in
the neighbourhood.
We did not land at Lingga on this occasion, but went on to a
settlement near a place called Banting, where the Society for the
Propagation of the Gospel had charge over a thriving community of
Christians. Bishop Chambers, whose name can never be forgotten in the
annals of Sarawak, here began his work of civilization as a missionary.
He was a great friend of the present Rajah, and for many years, these
two men, in their different ways, worked unremittingly for the good
of the natives. This missionary settlement is about fifteen miles by
river from Lingga, and it was here that I had my first experience of
travelling in a Dyak war-boat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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