Brooke, Margaret, Lady, 1849-1936; Queens -- Malaysia -- Sarawak -- Biography; Sarawak (Malaysia) -- Description and travel
These vessels are comfortable enough, being about seven feet wide
amidships by about seventy feet in length. A crew, numbering some
fifty, paddled us along. A roofed compartment in the middle of the
canoe, furnished with mattresses and pillows, afforded us comfortable
accommodation, and curtains hanging from the roof kept off the heat and
glare from the river in the daytime; whilst the rhythmical noise of the
paddles, and occasional wild bursts of songs from the crew helped to
make the journey a pleasant one.
As the crew shipped their paddles, I saw a long Dyak house, propped on
stilts about forty feet high, planted some yards from the river-bank.
As this place was situated within reach of the tide and we arrived at
low water, a vast expanse of mud stretched between us and dry land. I
could see nothing in the way of a landing-stage to help our way to the
house, excepting a few poles dovetailing one another laid across the
mud, supported by trestles. I wondered how I was to get across, but not
liking to make inquiries of an unpleasant nature, I said nothing; it is
better in any emergency to let events take their course with as little
fuss as possible, so that when our canoe was pushed by the side of the
supported poles, I kept silent. I remember noticing how cleverly our
Dyak crew manœuvred our boat, plunging knee-deep into the mud in their
efforts, and yet moving about quickly all the time. The Rajah led the
way and walked along some six or seven yards of the poles leading to
the Dyak village. I admired the way in which he kept his balance, never
slipping once during the journey. When my turn came, four Dyaks helped
me out of the boat. My progress across the poles was not a graceful
one, for I found them to be as slippery as glass. My four supporters,
two on each side of me, must have suffered severely, as I slid first
on one side and then on the other. However, their kindly efforts
prevented me from taking headers into the mud. But my troubles were not
yet over. I saw, leaning against the house at a steep angle, another
long pole with notches cut in it all the way up to the door of the
building. I saw the Rajah hopping up this small cylindrical stairway
with the agility of a gazelle. No explanation was given to me, but the
Dyaks signed to me that I had to do the same, so I tried to climb the
pole. It was only about twenty inches in circumference, so it will be
realized that this was a disconcerting sight to a person unaccustomed
to acrobatic feats. However, the Rajah seemed to take it as a matter of
course, and I tried to do the same, but the difficulty of turning one’s
feet out to the right angle was very trying at first. I clasped the
pole with great fervour as I went up, and one of the Dyaks behind me
took hold of my ankles, placing my feet on each notch with great care.
A Dyak in front of me held my left hand and with my right I clutched
the bamboo pole, and thus, with a good deal of slipping and a great
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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