Composers -- France -- Biography; Massenet, Jules, 1842-1912
My comrades went with me to the station "dei Termini," hard by the
Diocletian ruins. They did not leave until we had embraced warmly and
they stayed until my train disappeared beyond the horizon. Happy beings!
they would sleep that night at the Académie, while I was alone, torn by
the emotions of leaving, numbed by the keen, icy December cold, shrouded
in memories, and, unless fatigue aided me, unable to sleep. Next day I
was in Florence.
I wanted to see again this city with the richest collections of art in
Italy. I went to the Pitti Palace, one of the wonders of Florence. In
going through the galleries it seemed to me as though I were not alone,
but that the living remembrance of my comrades was with me, that I was a
witness of their enthusiasms and raptures before all the masterpieces
piled in that splendid palace. I saw again the Titians, the Tintorets,
the works of Leonardo, the Veronese, the Michel Angelos, and the
Raphaels.
With what delightfully charmed eyes I admired anew that priceless
treasure, Raphael's masterpiece of painting, the "Madonna della
sedella," then the "Temptation of St. Anthony" by Salvator Rosa placed
in the Hall of Ulysses, and in the Hall of Flora Canova's "Venus,"
mounted on a revolving base. I studied, too, the works of Rubens,
Rembrandt and Van Dyck.
From the Pitti Palace I went to be astounded anew by the Strozzi Palace,
the most beautiful type of Florentine palace. Its cornice, attributed to
Simon Pollajo, is the most beautiful known to modern times. I saw once
more the Buboli gardens, beside the Pitti Palace, designed by Tribolo
and Buontalenti.
I finished the day with a walk in the so-called Bois de Boulogne de
Florence, the Cascine Walk, at the western gate of Florence, between the
right bank of the Arno and the railroad. It is the favorite walk of the
elegant and fashionable world of Florence, the city called the Athens of
Italy. I remember that evening had already fallen and as I was without
my watch--I had left it at the hotel--I asked a peasant I met on the
road what time it was. The answer I received was so poetically turned
that I can never forget it, "_Sono le sette, l'aria ne treme
ancor!..._"
"It is seven o'clock. The air still trembles from the sound."
I left Florence to continue my trip by the way of Pisa.
Pisa seemed to me as depopulated as if it had been swept by the plague.
When one considers that in the Middle Ages it was a rival of Genoa,
Florence, and Venice, one feels puzzled by the comparative desolation
that envelops it. I remained alone for nearly an hour on the Piazza del
Duomo, looking with curiosity on the masterpieces which raise their
artistic beauty there, the Cathedral or Le Dôme de Pisa, the Campanile,
better known as the Leaning Tower, and last, the Baptistière.
Between the Dôme and the Baptistière stretches the Campo Santo, the
famous cemetery. The earth for this cemetery was brought from Jerusalem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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