At half-past two A.M. on the 13th we landed at Jalabert. The morning
was delightful, being quite calm with a sharp frost. While we lay here
waiting the change of the tide, Ouligbuck shot a fine large buck. Many
seals were sporting about, and a shoal of salmon were seen swimming
close to the beach. Having taken on board our venison, we pulled with
the tide now in our favour. We saw upwards of a dozen Greenland whales,
all apparently busy feeding, some of them very large. At noon we were in
latitude 63° 6' 14" N. The variation of the compass 8° 52' W. In the
evening we passed Chesterfield Inlet. Great numbers of rocks lie out
fully eight miles from the shore on its north side. The wind continued
fair and moderate all night, and at 6 in the morning, when in the large
bay S.W. of Cape Fullerton, a single Esquimaux visited us in his kayak.
He had been at Churchill last year, but did not intend to go thither
this season, although he had a number of wolf, fox, and parchment deer
skins at his tent. A present of a knife and a piece of tobacco made him
quite happy, and he left us shouting so loudly as to show that his lungs
were in good order. The party to which he belongs consists of ten
families, their hunting-grounds being situated on the borders of
Chesterfield Inlet, where they spear a great number of deer whilst
swimming across in the autumn. At some distance inland, woods are
found. A number of walruses were observed lying on a small ridge of
rocks. They were grunting and bellowing--making a noise which I fancy
would much resemble a concert of old boars and buffaloes. We did not
disturb their music. Obtained a meridian observation of the sun, which
gave latitude 64° 3' 42" N. As the refraction was great and the natural
horizon used, this is probably erroneous; if it is not, Cape Fullerton
is not properly laid down in the charts, being too far to the south.
Temperature of the air 58°, water 41°.
When doubling Cape Fullerton, we were obliged, by the numerous granite
reefs, to keep six or seven miles from the mainland. At 7 in the evening
we landed to replenish our water casks, and had an unsuccessful chase
after two deer. The horizon being clear, I saw Cape Kendall on
Southampton Island, bearing S.E. by S. magnetic.
15th.--We made but little progress last night, there being no wind. The
weather was rather cold, the thermometer standing at 40°, and the water
being only 4° above the freezing point indicated the proximity of ice. A
short time afterwards a large _pack_ was seen about five miles distant.
On approaching nearer, we found that it extended along shore as far as
the eye could see. At 2 P.M. we ran inshore, and took shelter under some
grey-coloured granite rocks twenty feet high. Deer being noticed at no
great distance, two or three sportsmen went after them, and succeeded
in shooting a doe. A very large whale was observed.
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