Finding our present position far from being a safe one, at high water we
pushed along shore among masses of ice during a thick fog, and entered
an inlet which opportunely presented itself, and which proved to be an
excellent harbour about 200 yards wide, from four to six fathoms deep,
and nearly four miles long. The bottom being sand and mud would afford
excellent anchorage for much larger craft than ours. As there were many
seals swimming about, I was led to infer that salmon or trout were
abundant; two nets were put down, but no fish were caught.
During a two days' detention here I traced, for eight miles, the course
of a considerable river which empties its waters into the inlet. I found
it to be a succession of rapids and deep pools, and running as nearly as
possible in a S.S.E. course. Near its mouth upwards of thirty seals were
lying basking in the sun; a ball fired among them sent the whole party
walloping into the water at a great rate, more frightened, however, than
hurt. One of the men had accompanied me, and during our walk we met with
a hen partridge (_tetrao rupestris_) and her brood. I have seen many
birds attempt to defend their young, but never witnessed one so
devotedly brave as this mother; she ran about us, over and between our
feet, striking at our hands when we attempted to take hold of her young,
so that she herself was easily made prisoner. Although kept in the hand
some time, when let loose again she continued her attacks with unabated
courage and perseverance, and was soon left mistress of the field, with
her family safe around her.
We were fortunate in finding some willows fully an inch in diameter,
which were far superior for fuel to the sea-weed and short heath we had
been using for the last two days.
Hutchins geese breed here in numbers, and as no Canada geese were seen,
I presume that they do not usually come so far north along the coast.
The shores have a very rugged appearance, there being numerous high
ridges of primitive rocks running far out into the sea in an east and
west direction, the line of stratification dipping to the south at an
angle of 75° with the horizon. In many places these rocks were thickly
studded with small garnets. The rise and fall of the tide was 13½ feet.
During the whole of the 16th the weather was cloudy, and it rained
heavily all night; but on the 17th the wind increased to a gale, the sky
cleared up, and a satisfactory observation was obtained by the
artificial horizon, which placed us in latitude 64° 6' 45" N. As we were
more than ten miles north of the situation where I had observed the
latitude on the 14th, the difference between the latitude obtained then
and that of our present situation shews the uncertainty of observations
made with the natural horizon when there is much refraction, or when
there is ice in the neighbourhood. The variation of the compass was 20°
10' W. The gale continued all day, and being from the westward much ice
was driven off shore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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