Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
There are altogether three hundred and twenty mihrábs, nineteen of
which are Imperial mosques. The first is the old mosque of Zobeide,
the cupola and walls of which are all inlaid with china (fayence;)
the mortar of the Mihráb having been mixed with musk, exhales the
sweetest perfume; its minareh is also entirely inlaid with china. The
mosque of Motevekel is a mosque in the old style, with one minareh,
which like the former is faced with china. In the course of time the
builder’s name has been lost, and it is now called Meshkieh. The
mosque of Sultán Mohammed Shám Ghazán, which was formerly a splendid
mosque, is now falling into decay in an obscure place; the mosque of
Jihán Sháh Emín is a high building with a dome vying with that of Ták
Kesra, like the mosque of Táher Bibars, at Cairo; its walls are white
polished like Chinese paper, and before the Mihráb is a fine garden,
the scent of which perfumes the air. The name of this fine mosque is
Dihshetí-Behesht (terror of Paradise). The mosque of Sultán Hassan, the
Prince of Azerbeiján, the same who built the fortress of Hassan Kala’a
to the east of Erzerúm, and who was defeated by Sultán Mohammed II. in
the field of Terján. He is buried at this mosque, the cupolas of which
are inlaid with china inside and out; it is quite equal to the mosque
of Sultán Hassan at Cairo. The minber, mihráb and mahfil are adorned
with such elegant sculptures and carving, that the greatest masters
of the present day would not be able to finish it in that style; the
windows shine with unparalleled splendour, but the greatest masterpiece
is conspicuous in the arabesques and ornaments of the great gate. Above
all the gates and windows are inscriptions in the character of Yakút
Mostea’assemí. On the side of the altar are two columns of a yellow
stone, each of which is worth the revenue of Irán and Turán: these two
columns have no equal, either in Egypt, Syria, Arabia, or Persia. The
other Imperial mosques are also faced with china, paved with marble and
adorned with paintings and suspended ornaments, so that each is quite a
Chinese gallery. These five mosques are not however so much frequented
as those in Turkey, because prayers are not performed in community,
but singly by persons, who enter and leave abruptly. Opposite to the
mosque of Uzún Hassan is that of Sháh Ismail, and near it that of Sháh
Makssúd, the son of Sultán Hassan; the old mosque of Chármenán, the
mosque of Abbás the first, and the great mosque, so large that from the
great gate to the mihráb opposite, a man can hardly be distinguished.
_Colleges of Tabríz._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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