Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
There are forty-seven large Colleges, where lectures are held on all
sciences; the first is that of the lady of Sháh Jihán: and twenty
rooms for reading the Korán (Dár-ul-kira) but they read it wrong
throughout all Persia. There are seven houses for reading tradition
(Dár-ul-hadíth), but the doctors of tradition are not much renowned,
because they confine themselves to the tradition of Alí and the twelve
Imáms, and have some thousand books on the traditions of Alí alone;
six hundred schools, where boys are taught to spell and read the
Korán, and are clothed once a year; one hundred and sixty convents of
dervishes; six fountains, which all issue from mount Semendán. The town
is besides furnished with seven canals of water, and there are one
thousand and forty Sebíls, or places for distributing water, which
are well covered. The town is divided into one thousand and sixty
quarters which are called Derveze. The water magazine (serdáb) which
was cleaned by Uzdemir Páshá furnishes the water of the canals. One
thousand and seventy palaces of great men, two hundred caravánseraïs,
seventy kháns for merchants and one hundred and ten for single workmen;
seven thousand market streets (Súk) many of which are vaulted like
those of Haleb; and a great Bezestán, which is the seat of the richest
merchants, with four iron gates.
_Praise of the Air and Climate._
By the mildness of the climate the inhabitants are all healthy and
stout, with red cheeks and black beards, merry faces, and lips like
rose-buds; the women are pretty, and conscious of the fairness of their
skins are extremely proud; those advanced in age are of sweet company,
so that the proverb, “the old is sweeter than the young,” may well be
applied to them. The inhabitants are all Shiís or Mulhad (impious),
a great number are Dumbúlí, Khaljání, Turcomans, and Gokdúlák. There
are two thousand Ulemás, amongst whom are excellent doctors, surgeons
and oculists. There are more than seven thousand pious Sheiks, who are
much esteemed in this town, the inhabitants never do any thing without
consulting them, but their sect is not exactly known. Eighty-two most
eloquent poets, authors of Diváns. Yárí and Shábí are the Saíb and Unfí
of their time. Of the Mujazib or Santons (Saint fools) we saw Sherímí,
whom no person ever saw eating, drinking, lying down, sleeping, or
performing any of the natural offices of life for seventy years. The
Persians are generally called Kizil-básh or red heads, because they
wrap red sashes round their heads, though many of them also wear the
Mohammedan white turban; but the cap is always pointed, and that of the
Ulemás, which is called Táj, or crown, is more than two yards long. The
great men wear sable.
_Account of the Persian Crown (Táj)._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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