Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. IIEvliya Çelebi
History
Narrative of Travels in Europe, Asia, and Africa, in the Seventeenth Century, Vol. II
Evliya Çelebi
Caucasus, South -- Description and travel; Istanbul (Turkey) -- Description and travel; Turkey -- History
Mingrelia is inhabited by a great number of different tribes, who speak
different dialects; there are seventy different products; its sheep,
goats, swine and fine breed of horses (Kohailán) are renowned; there
are neither mules nor asses in the whole of Georgia and Mingrelia,
but a great number of foxes, wild cats, and martens; corn and wheat
are scarce as hardly any thing but millet and Lazúd (?) is sown; on
the high mountains are many nut and fir-trees, box-trees and cedars.
The inhabitants, like those of Mingrelia, Abaza, and Circassia, are
settled in the mountains; they have castles with gardens and churches.
In short, during seventy-seven days, we made the tour of Mingrelia and
Georgia, after which time the Ottoman troops took the direction of
Erzerúm; on the third day we came to the district of Darátlí, which is
contiguous to the sanjak of Tortúm. Perfect security being restored,
the troops were licensed to break up by the Vezír of Akhiska, Sídí
Ahmed Páshá, and we then went with the Georgian Begs towards Chaldir.
After fourteen hours we reached the valley of Yúvána, where the
inhabitants of Isper and Tortúm met us with presents. At the public
entrance into Tortúm, the Cossack and Mingrelian prisoners were dragged
along in chains; the inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the
Istikbál (solemn meeting. See Morier’s travels). Sídí Páshá himself
wore the plumes of honour (Jíghatelí) which the Governor of Erzerúm
had sent to him, put on his well caparisoned state horse, trappings of
six pieces of steel of Nakshiván, wrapped round his head a red sash
in the Mohammedan fashion, clad himself in blue steel with armour
on his thighs, and, looking of stupendous size, like a seven-headed
dragon he passed through the crowd who received his salute crying,
“Aleik awnallah eí ghází seifollah!” “God’s assistance be upon thee,
O victor, sword of God!” The guns of the castle of Tortúm saluted and
the mountains re-echoed the thundering noise. Sídí Páshá repaired to
his palace, and Ketgáj Páshá, Bákí Páshá and eight Sanjak Begs encamped
before the town for three days, and on the fourth the whole of the
troops moved towards Erzerúm, the territory of which we reached on
Kássim (St. Demetrius’ day) and passed the straight of Ghází-boghází.
The governor expecting the troops, was in his tent at Gumishlí Kunbed
(silver vault) where Sídí Ahmed, Ketgáj, and Bákí Páshá were received
with the greatest distinction, treated with a splendid repast and
invested with pelisses of honour. Here the Páshá and Sanjak Begs laid
with great pomp their presents before the governor. The season being
now too far advanced to think of the expedition against Eriván, we
remained in this place spending our days in pleasure. The Governor, my
gracious Lord, being a little angry with me on account of my having
accompanied the expedition without leave, Sídi Ahmed Páshá interceded
in my favour, saying, “If it is a fault that I took Evliyá with me
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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