Nigeria : $b Its peoples and its problemsMorel, E. D. (Edmund Dene)
History
Nigeria : $b Its peoples and its problems
Morel, E. D. (Edmund Dene)
Ethnology -- Nigeria; Nigeria -- Description and travel
Here is a homily! Its origin one of those trivialities of which I have
spoken. One had pushed on ahead, desiring to be alone. With that curious
intuition which the African seems to possess, one’s mounted escort had,
somehow, gathered that, and a good half-mile separated one from one’s
followers. The sun was at its zenith, and danced over the dusky track.
But there were broad grateful trees on either side, and low bushes with
white sweet-scented flowers. A bend in the road brought into view a
little cameo of natural life. By a tree, straight-backed and grave-faced,
an elderly Fulani woman, supporting on her lap the head and shoulders of
a younger woman, who lay outstretched. At her feet a small child trying
to stand upright, with but indifferent success. For a moment one was
not perceived, both women’s eyes being fixed on the infant’s resolute
efforts, and one’s approach being quietened by the deadening dust under
foot. For a moment only. Then all three looked up. From her position the
younger woman’s limbs were more uncovered than a Hausa or Fulani woman
considers compatible with modesty before a stranger, and, with a sight of
that stranger, the instinctive movement came—the position was slightly
shifted, the robe drawn down, with no fuss or precipitancy, but calmly,
with dignity and decision.
We strayed yesterday. Starting off early we struck across country,
leaving the road, the red-and-green dressed gentleman and I; having
arranged to meet the rest ... somewhere. It does not matter where,
because, as a matter of fact, we didn’t. An imposing person the aforesaid
_dogari_, with a full black beard and fierce sword. It was good to get
away from the road, despite its varied interests, and for a couple of
hours one gave one’s self wholly up to the charms of the crispness of the
morning, the timid but sweet song of the birds, the whiffs of scent from
the mimosa bushes, the glimpse of some homestead farm in the distance,
the sight of a group of blue-robed women with biblical earthenware
pitchers on their heads issuing from a neatly thatched village, or
congregated in a circle round one of the wells whose inner rim is lined
and rendered solid by thick branches to prevent earth from falling in
and fouling the water. Their laughing voices were wafted across the
cultivated fields towards us, as cheery as the antics of the little brown
goats skipping over the ground. What a world of simple happiness in this
agricultural life of the _talakawa_—the common people—of Hausaland. And
then, well we were clearly at fault. No signs of any of the men. No
signs of breakfast, I mean of the person by whom breakfast is supposed
to be produced—and nearly eight o’clock. The gentleman in red and green
twisted his turbaned and bearded visage to right and left. He looked at
me expressively, which look I returned—with equal gravity, the substance
of our power of communicativeness. Then he turned his broad back and his
white horse’s head, and ambled on, and I followed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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