Nigeria : $b Its peoples and its problemsMorel, E. D. (Edmund Dene)
History
Nigeria : $b Its peoples and its problems
Morel, E. D. (Edmund Dene)
Ethnology -- Nigeria; Nigeria -- Description and travel
It is queer how you
accommodate yourself to philosophy, or how philosophy accommodates itself
to you. After all, every road leads to Rome; and there is a certain
amount of exhilaration in not knowing what particular Rome it may be, or
through what twists and turns the track may lead you on the way thither.
No homesteads now, and the risen sun had warmed the birds into silence.
One notices that, by the way. In the early mornings the timid notes are
heard, and as the sun’s rays pierce through the mists and burn them up,
they cease. It is a melodious little ode to the great Life-giver, and
when it has served its purpose it quavers, quivers, and is no more.
On a sudden the thunder of hoofs behind us, and an elderly,
aristocratic-looking horseman with an aquiline nose, short grey beard
and piercing eyes, gallops up over the deep furrows, followed by three
attendants also on horseback. An imposing figure of a man he is,
splendidly mounted on a chestnut stallion, with a heavy cloak of dark
blue cloth flung across his shoulders, the red crest of a fez just
showing through the top of his dark blue turban. An animated conversation
ensues between him and the gentleman in red and green. The Chief—for
one knows he must be such from his bearing and the sharp ring of his
tones—waves a long, thin hand to right and left. The _dogari_ listens
respectfully, somewhat crestfallen in appearance (perhaps he was hungry
too!). The mounted attendants career away in different directions, one, I
learn afterwards, to trace the main body of carriers, the other to find
the cook, the third to call for milk and firewood from some neighbouring
village. Then the Chief bows low over his horse’s neck, places himself
between the _dogari_ and myself, and we proceed once more along the
narrow pathway, cut at frequent intervals by small streams, now mostly
dry, with precipitous banks that need some negotiating. The courtesy of
that grey-bearded old aristocrat—every inch a ruler of men—the Fulani
who has become the statesman and the lord over many! He is the Governor,
I learn later, of one of the principal districts of Kano province, and
he looks it from head to foot. At the approach of every stream, half
hidden with tangled creepers, wherever the path is broken or impeded by
some natural obstacle, he half turns his horse towards one in warning,
then waits on the other side until he is satisfied that the difficulty
is overcome. Does the over-hanging branch of some tree threaten a blow
to the careless rider? He either breaks it off short in its passage,
or, if it be too formidable for that, points with uplifted finger. And
when, at last, in an open space a small group under a tree proclaims
the much perturbed—his usual condition—cook, busy boiling milk and
cocoa, another low bow, and the old gentleman retires at an appropriate
distance, turning his back with the politeness required of tradition
and custom, but not before another rapid order has been given, and the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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