Ninon de l'Enclos and her centuryRowsell, Mary C. (Mary Catherine)
History
Ninon de l'Enclos and her century
Rowsell, Mary C. (Mary Catherine)
Lenclos, Ninon de, 1620-1705
As to the women’s dress in France, it varied somewhat according to
their rank. Middle-class bourgeoises wore the scantiest covering
out-of-doors on their necks and shoulders; not even in church was
their attire more modest. To so scandalous a length was this carried,
that it brought on them more than one remonstrance from the pulpit;
and Englishwomen, taking as always, their fashions from Paris,
followed suit. A Nonconformist English divine published a translation
of a French work by “A grave and learned Papist”—possibly the Curé
of St Étienne—who reprehended in no measured terms the “shameful
enormity,” as he phrased it, of this style of dress. The ladies of
the great world ordinarily went with more circumspection in the
streets, and nearly always, also, they wore a mask. It was generally
made of black velvet, lined with white satin. It fixed itself on
the face with a spring, and was fastened with a thin wire, which
was terminated by a glass button that could be dropped between the
lips, and so disguise the voice. The female style of dressing the
hair was to gather it up in a bunch at the crown of the head, leaving
some curls to hang on each side of the face; over this was placed a
sort of little linen hood, the points of which usually reached to
the shoulders. The gowns were wide-sleeved and long-waisted, with
a skirt embroidered or trimmed with lace. A small dog was almost
indispensable to a lady of fashion. The little creatures were very
pretty, generally having pointed muzzles and ears. Women took snuff
and smoked, and the traces of these habits were apt to leave their
ugly reminders about their persons and dress.
A great many new streets and houses were added to the city. The
increase in the number of public vehicles rendered the streets very
noisy, while the filth of the ways was indescribable; but this did
not hinder women from walking in velvet slippers, or pages and
lackeys from wearing bright, gold-laced scarlet livery.
The state of morals, from highest to lowest, was at a low ebb. Vice
permeated every class, from the clergy and nobility to the dregs of
the populace. Murder and barefaced robbery took place constantly
in the streets; the rage for gambling was boundless, and the
cardinal-minister made no attempt to check the shameful licence of
the green tables.
Yet Paris was fair and brilliant to the eye when Maria Théresa made
her entry in the most magnificent carriage of the cortège which
occupied three hours in passing. The princess was not beautiful;
but her expression was amiable, and her complexion very fair for a
Spanish woman. She wore a mantle of violet velvet embroidered with
golden _fleur-de-lis_ over a robe of white brocade covered all down
the front with a splendid _rivière_ of emeralds, and she wore her
crown with infinite grace and dignity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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