The value of indigo as a dyeing material is due to the great stability
of the blue color, and the derivatives from blue, which it gives to
fabrics, especially of wool and cotton. It is not sufficient that a
dyed fabric should preserve its color when submitted to violent tests,
as when acted upon by vegetable or mineral acids or alkaline or soapy
baths: the only stable dyes are those which resist air and light, the
two destructive agents of vegetable colors. Indigo, from the
remarkable manner in which its color becomes fixed upon a fabric, to
be hereafter explained, possesses properties of resistance and
stability in a higher degree than any blue dye. And when we consider
that this blue has not only its own hue, but is the best foundation
for blacks, greens, purples, and even browns, the importance of these
properties cannot be over-estimated. Says M. de Kæppelin, a chemist
and manufacturer of Mulhouse, in one of a series of articles furnished
to the _Annales du gênie Civil_, 1864: “So high are the properties of
resistance and stability which indigo possesses, that it is perhaps to
be regretted for the art of the dyer and manufacturer of printed
calicoes, that the use of indigo becomes more and more rare, and that
the recent discoveries which modern science has placed at the service
of industry are daily eliminating it from our factories. I have
observed that whenever we have to dye stuffs of a high price, it is
indigo which always serves as a base for the foundation of all the
blue colors, or of those which are derived from blue. It is the same
for the fabrication of printed tissues, which serve for the poorer
classes, whose colors should have great stability without much
increase of cost. But of late years, especially, we find a tendency to
employ colors of little stability, and to prefer them, even in the
class of fabrics first referred to, to those which are more fast, on
account of their vivacity and freshness of tone. It is this tendency,
which the consumer partakes of even while complaining of it, that the
textile manufacturers ought to seek to combat. How often have I heard
the greatest manufacturers of Alsace deplore the obligation which they
felt that they were under of printing their tissues by means of colors
so fugacious and so little resistant as those composed from aniline.
We must hope, then, in the interest of that industry, that while
adopting the marvellous discoveries which science is every day making,
there shall be made a less general application of them, and that we
shall return to the fabrication of the styles which necessitate the
more constant employment of coloring materials,—less brilliant, it is
true, but more adherent to the tissues, and less alterable by air and
light. It seems to me, also, that taste would lose nothing; and that
printed stuffs, colored in a manner less brilliant, but more
harmonious, would be perhaps more appreciated, especially by those who
use them.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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