The tendency to substitute the brilliant for the stable dyes prevails
too much in our own manufacture. A very considerable cloth
manufacturer replied to our inquiry as to the extent to which he used
indigo: “I hardly use it at all; the dye of the indigo blue is not
bright enough to be popular.” On the other hand, we have heard our
leading manufacturer of carpets, whose cultivated taste has led him to
partake of M. de Kæppelin’s views, deplore the introduction of aniline
dyes, as a positive calamity to the textile industry. It is the
influence of the trade, the immediate consumers of fabrics, rather
than the judgment of manufacturers, which promotes the use of the
modern fugacious dyes. The dealers desire not only to imitate the
fashionable colors of European goods, but to secure the utmost
cheapness. One of our largest manufacturers of woollen goods, who had
made a special study of the best processes abroad, and was desirous of
bringing better dyed goods into more general consumption, urged one of
his largest customers, an extensive dealer, to allow him to dye the
waterproof cloakings which he was furnishing for his house, in fast
indigo colors, assuring him that he would charge simply the additional
cost of the indigo, without profit. The offer, which involved the cost
of only a few cents a yard, which would have been gladly paid by the
last consumer if the difference of value had been made known, was
declined. It is not improbable that the inferior goods which the
manufacturer was compelled to furnish were sold to the public as fast
dyed. Our manufacturers, therefore, may not have been responsible for
the predicament in which the most enthusiastic defender of our
protective policy found himself, as we have it from his own lips.
Being about to make a speech in Congress in defence of American
industries, he put on, for the first time, a coat declared to have
been made of American cloth. Sitting down, heated and perspiring from
the excitement of his effort, he found that beneath the arms whose
gestures had enforced his eulogies of American industry, the pretended
fast blue of his coat had become _red_, literally _blushing_ for its
unmerited praise. That fast-dyed goods of the highest excellence can
be and are furnished by American manufacturers, is shown by our army
cloths. The government specifications, copies of which are published
elsewhere in this number, require that all the blue woollen cloth, cap
cloth, and flannels furnished for the army shall be “pure indigo
dyed.” The requisition is strictly enforced. The admirable effect of
this regulation may be witnessed at any dress parade of a battalion of
United States soldiers. The persistency and uniformity of the hue
under constant wear—the cloth of the common soldier in its superior
dye often favorably contrasting with the finer but fancy dyed cloth of
the officer—is one of the circumstances which justify the assertion,
that our army is the best clothed in the world. The contrast is more
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