“The dye-vats employed are circular, having a diameter of six feet six
inches, and depth of seven feet, and are made of cast-iron
five-eighths of an inch in thickness. They are surrounded by
brickwork, a space of three inches in width being left between the
brickwork and the iron, for the purpose of admitting steam, by means
of which the vats are heated. The interior surface of the brickwork is
well cemented. In setting a vat the following materials are used: 5
cwt. of woad, 30 lbs. of indigo, 56 lbs. of bran, 7 lbs. of madder, 10
quarts of lime. The woad supplied to the Yorkshire dyers is grown and
prepared in Lincolnshire. It is in the form of a thick, brownish
yellow paste, having a strong ammoniacal smell. The indigo is ground
with water in the usual manner. The madder acts in promoting
fermentation, but it also serves to give a reddish tinge to the color.
The lime is prepared by putting quicklime into a basket, then dipping
it in water for an instant, lifting it out again, and then passing it
through a sieve, by which means it is reduced to a fine powder, called
by the dyers _ware_. The vat is first filled with water, which is
heated to 140° F., after which the materials are put in, and the whole
is well stirred until the woad is dissolved or diffused, and it is
then left to stand undisturbed overnight; at six o’clock the next
morning the liquor is again stirred up, and five quarts more of lime
are added; at ten o’clock five pints of lime are again thrown in, and
at twelve o’clock the heat is raised to 120° F., which temperature
must be kept up until three o’clock, when another quart of lime is
introduced. The vat is now ready for dyeing. When the process of
fermentation is proceeding in a regular manner, the liquid, though
muddy from insoluble vegetable matter in suspension, is of a yellow or
olive yellow color; its surface is covered with a blue froth or
copper-colored pellicle, and it exhales a peculiar ammoniacal odor; at
the bottom of the vat there is a mass of undissolved, matter of a
dirty yellow color. If there is an excess of lime present, the liquor
has a dark green color, and is covered with a grayish film, and, when
agitated, the bubbles which are formed agglomerate on the surface, and
are not easily broken. Cloth dyed in a liquid of this kind loses its
color on being washed. This state of the vat is remedied by the
addition of bran, and is of no serious consequence. When, on the other
hand, there is a deficiency of lime, or, in other words, when the
fermentation is too active, the liquor acquires first a drab, then a
clay-like color; when agitated, the bubbles which form on its surface
burst easily, and when stirred up from the bottom with a rake it
effervesces slightly, or _frits_, as the dyers say. If the
fermentation be not checked at this stage, putrefaction soon sets in,
the liquid begins to exhale a fetid odor, and when stirred evolves
large quantities of gas, which burns with a blue flame on the
application of a light.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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