APPLICATIONS OF INDIGO IN PRINTING COTTON FABRICS.
Before entering upon methods used in large establishments, it may not
be without interest to observe the processes still used in Java for
printing calicoes, which the natives prefer to any imported from
Europe. In Java there are no factories, and the women in each family
make and dye or print all the cotton cloths required for their own
consumption. They apply by means of a brush or pencil, which they use
with great skill, to the cotton tissue which they wish to cover a thin
coating of wax mixed with a little resin, the wax being applied to all
the parts where the design, which has been first traced upon the
cloth, requires that the fabric should remain uncolored. They then
immerse the stuff several times in an indigo vat until they have
obtained the desired tint. The stuff is afterwards washed and dried
for a new application of the wax, carefully applied with a pencil as
before. The cloth is then immersed in a bath of a different color,
made with madder or catechu, but always of some dye which is perfectly
stable; and the operation is repeated according to the number of
colors desired. By these successive applications of wax and immersions
into different vats, they succeed in producing very complicated and
harmonious colors, while no European goods compare with them in
stability of dye.
In the European, and our own manufacture, the blue bottoms upon
vegetable fibres, made by immersion in the indigo vat, are combined
with white impressions, or others variously colored, by two distinct
methods. Sometimes there is printed upon the cloth before dyeing in
the indigo vat a preparation called a reserve or resist, which
prevents the indigotine from being deposited in the places where it is
applied. Sometimes, on the contrary, the indigo, which has been
uniformly fixed upon the fabric, is destroyed in certain places marked
out by printing upon them certain chemical agents, called _discharges_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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