Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive noticesStewart, Donald William
History
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices
Stewart, Donald William
Tartans -- Scotland
The Vignette on the title-page is from a painting in Armadale Castle,
dated about 1750. It represents Sir James Macdonald of Sleat and his
brother Alexander, afterwards first Lord Macdonald of the Isles.
[Illustration]
INTRODUCTION.
Of the dress of the Highlanders of Scotland prior to the fifteenth
century the descriptions available are few and meagre. True, there
are many references to a style of costume which consisted mainly of
a loose outer garment, but these are equally applicable to the wear
of neighbouring countries, and contain no account of the distinctive
features associated with the Highland dress. Probably the earliest
reference to the latter is to be found in the Saga of Magnus Barefoot,
King of Norway, 1093-1103, who led marauding expeditions to the west of
Scotland in the first year of his reign and subsequently. Of his return
from such a raid the historian chronicles:—
People say that when King Magnus came home from his viking cruise to
the Western countries, he and many of his people brought with them a
great deal of the habits and fashions of clothing of those Western
parts. They went about on the streets with bare legs, and had short
kirtles and over-cloaks; and therefore his men called him Magnus
Barefoot or Bareleg.[1]
The word “kyrtlu” probably indicates a garment corresponding somewhat
to the feilebeg or kilt, though it may also indicate one which covered
the upper portion of the body as well, and thus formed a species
of tunic.[2] Still, the description of the distinctive costume of
the Western Islanders at this remote period is extremely valuable,
especially as it is written by one who lived so near the time when
the incidents narrated took place. In accordance with the custom of
fosterage then prevalent in Norway, and continued in Scotland long
afterwards, Snorro Sturleson, the author of the Saga, was reared with
the children of the king’s daughter, and so had opportunity of hearing
and noting the use of the strange costume.
The chartularies of Aberdeen attest the use not merely of the style of
dress that figures in the Saga, but also of a parti-coloured cloth,
which was probably tartan. In these ancient records are notes on early
customs of the utmost importance to antiquaries. They contain, besides
the charters of the lands belonging to the See, the canons of the
Scottish Church, and the statutes of the Church of Aberdeen, framed in
the thirteenth century; it is there provided that “all ecclesiastics
are to be suitably apparelled, avoiding red, green, and striped
clothing, and their garments shall not be shorter than to the middle
of the leg.”[3] Of course, it cannot be held that this conclusively
proves the existence of breacan or tartan, but striped clothing is as
near an approach to an accurate description of it as can be expected
at so early a period. The injunctions indicate a general use of
parti-coloured garments in the northern districts of the country in the
thirteenth century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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