Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive noticesStewart, Donald William
History
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices
Stewart, Donald William
Tartans -- Scotland
The famous clan battle on the North Inch of Perth took place in 1396,
but only the slightest reference is made to the dress of the combatants
in any of the accounts now extant. In the narrative by Abbot Bower, the
continuator of Fordun, it is recorded that the battle was waged
By thirty men against thirty of the opposite party, armed only with
swords, bows and arrows, without mantles or other armour except
axes.[4]
The mantle is doubtless the over-cloak of Magnus Barefoot’s time, and
the prototype of the plaid often so designated by writers of later date.
Borthwick in his _Antiquities_[5] prints the Accounts for 1474 of John,
Bishop of Glasgow, Treasurer to James III., which contain the entry:
“Halve ane elne of double tartan to lyne riding collars to the queen.”
Pinkerton adopts Borthwick’s reading.[6] Pitcairn cites entries, under
date October 1488, of a fabric called “tarter,” and he adds “this is
evidently tartan.”[7] Had the conclusions of these antiquaries as
to the identity of the words been correct, then these would be the
earliest specific references to tartan hitherto discovered in our
records; but that they are not is pointed out by the editor of the
_Treasurer’s Accounts_, who writes:—
Tartar, the name of which bespeaks its Eastern origin, though it was
no doubt imitated by the weavers of Italy and France, is described as
“single” or “double,” according to texture, and as “variant” or shot,
the warp and woof being of contrasted colours. This not uncommon word
has been frequently misread “tartan,” and examples of its occurrence
quoted from the _Treasurer’s Accounts_ as illustrative of the early
use of that material.[8]
The opinion of such eminent antiquaries has misled all subsequent
writers of important works relating to tartans, with the exception of
John Sobieski Stuart and W. F. Skene; even works appearing many years
after the issue of the _Accounts of the Lord High Treasurer_ continue
to perpetuate the old errors.
There is a significant passage in the old Gaelic tale of “Curio,”
describing the giant Anteus, which runs thus:—
Nibidh dono tuighi na craibheach, na pell, no brotrach, na brecan, na
crocend anmanna, fui isin leapaidh sin acht a thaoebh fri sin talmain.
Now he had not thatch, nor branches, nor hide, nor coverlet, nor
breacan [_i.e._, tartan, or tartan plaid], nor skin under him in that
bed, but his side to the earth.[9]
“Brecan,” literally a speckled or variegated cloth, has been employed
in the Gaelic language as synonymous with tartan and the tartan plaid
from earliest times, in evident allusion to the checked or spotted
appearance of the garment. “Breac” signifies parti-coloured or spotted.
It is a Gaelic name of the salmon and of the trout, conferred, no
doubt, on account of their speckled aspect.
A curious fifteenth century reference to “hewyt,” _i.e._, coloured,
striped, or variegated clothing, occurs in a sumptuary law of the Scots
Parliament:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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