Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive noticesStewart, Donald William
History
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices
Stewart, Donald William
Tartans -- Scotland
Proof is thus supplied of the continued use of the Highland shirt,
generally saffron-dyed; and the “light covering” was doubtless the
mantle or breacan, the belted plaid, for this last is either identical
with or a development of the over-cloak of Magnus Barefoot’s time.
In 1552 the Scottish Privy Council passed an Act for the formation of
“tua ansaingyeis of fittmen,” to be raised in the Highland portion of
Lord Huntly’s lieutenancy, for service in France. The instructions laid
down for their equipment afford some idea of the dress of the Highland
soldier of the period, since the levy was to be drawn from the north
country. It is provided that the men are to be
Substantiouslie accomptirit with jack and plait, steilbonett, sword,
bucklair, new hois and new dowblett of cannvus at the lest, and slevis
of plait or splenttis, and ane speir of sax elnes lang or thairby.[17]
The trews (hois) and doublet are to be of canvas at least, presumably
as a precaution against any shortcoming of woollen stuff; while
the kilt or plaid appears to form no portion of the outfit on this
occasion.
Of the dress of the common people another description, written about
1573, is given by Lindsay of Pitscottie. It is once more obvious
that the belted plaid of latter days was then represented by a loose
garment, which was probably plaited round the body to some extent. The
chronicle sets forth:—
The other pairt [of Scotland] northerne, ar full of montaines, and
verie rud and homlie kynd of people doeth inhabite, which is called
the Reidschankis, or wyld Scottis. They be cloathed with ane mantle,
with ane schirt fachioned (or saffroned) after the Irisch maner, going
bair legged to the knie. Thair weapones ar bowis and dartes, with ane
verie broad sword and ane dagger scharp onlie at the on syd.[18]
But the most detailed notice of the dress worn by the inhabitants of
the Highlands and Islands in the sixteenth century is to be found in a
work by John Leslie, Bishop of Ross, the devoted adherent of Mary Queen
of Scots, originally published in Rome in 1578. From his conspicuous
position, alike as historian and as statesman, his notes on the apparel
of the men and women of his age are highly important. It appears that
the belted plaid had become the wear of both rich and poor, through the
extended manufacture of woollen fabrics and the increased prosperity of
the people. He writes:—
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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