Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's StrollMartin, Benjamin Ellis
History
Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's Stroll
Martin, Benjamin Ellis
Chelsea (London, England) -- Description and travel
The name of Pennsylvania just mentioned comes to us again as we walk a
little further west; for its famous founder, William Penn, is oddly
enough associated with the notorious Cremorne Gardens, which lay just
here. The very name of this haunt of feasting and flirting by a peculiar
irony was derived from the Viscount Cremorne, its former owner, “this
most excellent man,” known, even when plain Thomas Dawson, before his
peerage, as a model of all that was steady and sedate. His second wife,
the great-granddaughter of William Penn, was named Philadelphia, from the
city of her birth—a good woman, whose character, her funeral sermon
assures us, “it was difficult to delineate.” She, becoming Lady
Cremorne, and outliving her husband, inherited this charming villa and
grounds, called Chelsea Farm; and left it at her death, in 1825, to her
nephew, Granville Penn, “one of the Hereditary Governors and
Proprietaries of the late Province of Pennsylvania.” He soon sold it,
and it became a den of drinking, dancing, devilry. The ancient gilded
barge, “The Folly,” moored on its river front, was once more the scene of
just such orgies as it had known in its youth, during the roystering days
of the Restoration.
Past the prim and proper brick cottages, past the innocent nursery
garden, which cover wicked old Cremorne: through new streets and
crescents built on the site of the famous Ashburnham estate—where, in old
days, stretched the great gardens of the learned Dr. Cadogan, filled with
rarest medicinal plants: out beyond the high brick wall, massive with
reserve and respectability, behind which hides old Stanley House—built by
Sir Arthur Gorges, who was embalmed in his friend Spenser’s verse as
Alcyon, for his talents and his conjugal affection, and who was here
visited once by Queen Elizabeth; her thrifty-minded majesty accepting, as
was her wont, the customary gift of greeting, “a faire jewell,” from her
host:—so we come to the westernmost edge of Chelsea. Here, standing on
the little bridge which carries King’s Road across the deep railway
cutting into Sand’s End, Fulham, we look over to an old plaster-fronted
house, once known as Sandford Manor House. This was one of the many
residences of Mistress Eleanor Gwynne; and in it, a hundred years after
her, lived Joseph Addison. It has been newly plastered, the sloping roof
raised a little, and the wings long since torn down; but it has been very
slightly modernized otherwise; and Mr. McMinn, its occupant, with rare
and real reverence has preserved its antique features; all the more
marked by their contrast with the great modern gasometers beyond.
Within, its square hall retains the old wainscotting, and the staircase
remains as when Charles II. rode up it on his pony, for a freak. The
delightful little back garden is perhaps hardly altered since those days,
except that the four walnut trees which Charles is said to have planted
in the front garden have gone to decay and have recently been uprooted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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