Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of Hospitality — John Shaqi
Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of HospitalityEndell, Fritz August Gottfried
History
Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of Hospitality
Endell, Fritz August Gottfried
Inn signs; Taverns (Inns)
We cannot hide the fact that the beginnings of business hospitality
were of a very unedifying character, under the plague of Mammon. In
Jewish and Gentile society alike they must have been closely akin to
that kind of hospitality against whose smooth speech and Egyptian
luxury the wise old Solomon warned foolish youth in his Proverbs.
Witness the identical word in Hebrew to denote a courtesan and a
tavern hostess; witness Plato’s exclusion of the tavern-keeper from
his ideal republic; witness the reluctance of the respectable Greek
and Roman to enter a tavern. In the Berlin collection of antiques
there is a stone relief which has been pronounced an old Roman tavern
sign. On it the “Quattuor sorores,” or four sisters, are represented
as frivolous women. And there are charges entered on old Roman tavern
bills which could not possibly appear on a hotel bill to-day. Both the
rich and the poor were imbued with the spirit of Horace’s words:--
“Pereant qui crastina curant,
Mors aurem vellens: Vivite, ait, venio.”
(Dismiss care for the morrow,
Death tweaks us by the ear and says, Drink, for I come.)
This spirit reveals itself in a dance of death, which decorated the
beautiful silver tankards found in Boscoreale, a Pompeian suburb. And
so we must not be surprised to see later, during the Middle Ages, even
on tavern signs the grim figure of Death; as for example, on the
French tavern, “La Mort qui trompe.”
The magnificent frescoes of the rich in Pompeian art show us a
palatial feasting-hall with the inscription, “Facite vobis suaviter”
(Enjoy your life here); and at the same time the tavern guests for a
few pennies woo the philosophy of “carpe diem”--the careless
abandonment to pleasure that knows no concern for the morrow. Another
inscription found in Pompeii makes the tavern Hebe say: “For an as
[penny] I give you good wine; for a double as, still better wine; for
four ases, the famed Falerian wine of song.” To be sure, the wine was
often pretty bad in these greasy inns--Horace’s “uncta popina.” One
guest relieved his mind of his complaint by writing on the chamber
wall: “O mine host, you sell the doctored wine, but the undiluted you
drink yourself.” On the same wall, which seems to have served as a
kind of “guest-book” (“libro dei forestieri”) are the names of many
guests, one of whom complains in touching phrase that he is sleeping
far away from his beloved wife for whom he yearns: “urbanam suam
desiderabat.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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