Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of HospitalityEndell, Fritz August Gottfried
History
Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of Hospitality
Endell, Fritz August Gottfried
Inn signs; Taverns (Inns)
The same source of popular imagination created “Le Géant,” the sign
“Zu den Slaraffen” in Strassburg, 1435, and the sign of “The Little
and the Great Sleeper” that during three centuries, from 1400 to 1705,
invited the citizens of the Alsatian capital to cross its hospitable
threshold. A charming picture, “The Sleeping Giant of the Woods” by
Lukas Kranach, in Dresden’s famous Gallery, will help us to imagine
how the big sleeper probably looked. Is it the famous “Wild Man” or
“Le Grand Hercule” who sleeps here in the shadow of the forest? One
thing is sure, he has been drinking deeply and is dead asleep; nothing
can wake him up, not even this little army of dwarfs around him who
attack him with lances and arrows, nay, even try to saw into his
strong limbs.
Since the days of the “Roman du Renard,” the first version of which
dates back to the eleventh century, to the days of Goethe’s “Reineke
Fuchs,” shrewd master Fox was a favorite of the people. In old
miniatures we encounter him as a monk, his pointed nose buried in a
prayer-book. His exploits most naturally form good themes for the
tavern sign. Dancing before a hen to seduce the foolish creature by
his graceful charms, he was represented on an old French sign in Le
Mans: “Renard dansant devant une poule.” Preaching to ducks, “Wo der
Fuchs den Enten predigt” is the name of a Strassburg tavern, which
dates only from 1848. His shrewdness before the royal tribunal of the
lion was well known; Montaigne, therefore, warns the tavern-keepers
who desire the patronage of advocates against painting him on the
signboard: “qui veut avoir la clientèle des procureurs ne doit point
mettre renard sur son enseigne.”
Other animals appealed more to the culinary instincts of the
passer-by, among them the swan, “l’oiseau de bon augure,” which we do
not like to see turned into roasts. But in Chaucer’s times it was
evidently considered a fine dish, since he lets the monk in his
“Canterbury Tales” say: “A fat swan loved he best of any rost.” A
picture by David Teniers in The Hague, called “The Kitchen,” shows how
the bird was served in his natural glory, a crown of flowers on his
proud head. This custom to serve fowl in full plumage is proved by
Montaigne’s description of a dinner in Rome: “On y servit force
volaille rôtie, revêtue de sa plume naturelle comme vifve ... oiseaus
vifs (enplumés) en paste.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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