Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of HospitalityEndell, Fritz August Gottfried
History
Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of Hospitality
Endell, Fritz August Gottfried
Inn signs; Taverns (Inns)
“Souls of Poets dead and gone,
What Elysium have ye known,
Happy fields or mossy cavern,
Choicer than the Mermaid Tavern?”
Truly a capricious wind has carried away the old Mermaid sign into far
and unknown regions, and to-day the scholars are disputing where
really the famous house stood.
Two other taverns, less roughly handled by Father Time, may claim to
be next in literary rank: “The Cheshire Cheese” and “The Cock,” both
in Fleet Street. “Ye olde Cheshire Cheese,” or simply “The Cheese,” is
not easy to find because it really stands on a narrow side-lane, the
Wine Office Court. It has the great advantage of having preserved
unchanged the character of a seventeenth-century tavern. Although
venerable, it is not the original building, which was destroyed,
together with many other public-houses in the great fire of 1666.
Pious souls saw in the fact that the conflagration started in Pudding
Lane and ended at Pie Corner an evident proof that the fire was sent
from Heaven as punishment for “the sin of gluttony.” Shakespeare is
said to have turned in not unfrequently at the old house of the
“Cheshire Cheese” on his way to the Blackfriars’ Theatre in the
Playhouse Yard, Ludgate Hill, where he was director for a time, or
coming back for a twilight drink after the performance, which in
those times closed as early as five o’clock. In spite of the warning
fire of 1666 the sin of gluttony is still readily committed in the
“Cheshire Cheese,” whose specialty, a meat pudding,--containing not
only roast beef, kidneys, and oysters, but sky-larks too!--might even
be called a sin against the holy ghost of poetry. Once immersed in
this pudding the divine singers are silent forever without the
consolation of the children’s book:--
“And when the pie was opened
The birds began to sing.”
Some of these lark puddings are even shipped to Yankeeland, which
sends every year countless pilgrims to the “Cheshire Cheese.” If
possible, the American father of a family will take the seat of Dr.
Samuel Johnson, the famous lexicographer, lean his head against the
old paneling, which clearly shows the marks of the greasy wigs of the
Doctor and his friend Oliver Goldsmith, and look at chick and child
with an Olympian air, as if he wanted to say: “I am Sir Oracle, and
when I ope my mouth let no dog bark.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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