In the second half of the 17th century the attention of Europe was focused on the court of Louis XIV and the French style of dress, especially for men, predominated. In particular, the coat (_justaucorps_), which evolved from the cassock, an outer garment, began to be worn regularly over the doublet, which by this time was already much reduced in size yet destined to survive as the waistcoat (_veste_). This fashion spread fairly rapidly through Europe--in England, as has been mentioned, it was dominant by 1670--but it is not clear how. The position of France, however, was stated in a fashion article in the _Mercure Galant_ in 1673 (vol. 3):[32] . . . rien ne plait davantage que les Modes nées en France . . . . C’est pourquoi dans toutes les Provinces du Monde on fait venir de France quantité de choses qui regardent l’habillement encor qu’on ne s’habille pas tout-a-fait à la Françoise . . . . [Footnote 32: Translated, this reads: “. . . nothing is more pleasing than the styles born in France . . . . This is why much relating to dress is imported from France into all the provinces of the world, though the final dress is not exactly French.”] [Illustration: Figure 15.--MAN in petticoat breeches (Rhinegraves). This illustration is not a fashion plate but an engraving that was often reprinted in pattern books used by teachers and students of figure drawing. From a drawing book by S. le Clerc, ca. 1665. (Author’s collection.)] [Illustration: Figure 16.--COURTIER IN FULL DRESS for the winter 1677-78 wearing a flame-colored embroidered cloth cloak over a gray silk coat and matching waistcoat. This costume is almost as grand as the blue privilege “_justaucorps à brevet_” which, after 1665, was occasionally granted to others than princes of royal blood. Issued with the _Mercure Galant_, 1678. (Author’s collection.) {caption at end}] [Illustration: Figure 17.--LADY FITTED OUT for the winter of 1677-78 wears a dress of black velvet with diamond knots and an ermine-bordered skirt. She carries a colored muff. Issued with the _Mercure Galant_, 1678. (Author’s collection.) {caption at end}]