The _Mercure Galant_, strangely neglected by costume historians, occupies a most important place in the history of fashion literature, since it is the first and for almost a century the only periodical to contain regular articles on contemporary fashion. The person responsible for editing and indeed for writing these articles was Jean Donneau de Visé (1640-1710), an unsuccessful dramatist, rival of Molière, whom he sarcastically attacked several times in print. The story of his journalistic venture is not at all easy to unravel,[33] since the octavo publications (“Chez Claude Barbin, au Palais”) were pirated almost immediately, and impressions--all that I have seen are duodecimos--appeared in Paris and Amsterdam (“Suivant la Copie imprimée à Paris”). A single number of an English translation, the _Mercury Gallant_, is in the British Museum. [Illustration: Figure 18.--OUTDOOR WINTER DRESS for men is strongly influenced by military fashions. An enormous fringed baldrick, tied by a military scarf, supports the diminutive dress sword. Wigs and hats were comparatively small for the winter 1677-78. Issued with the _Mercure Galant_, 1678. (Author’s collection.) {caption at end}] The _Mercure Galant_ was published sporadically from 1672 through 1674, with six numbers in all. In 1677, it obtained a privilege and, with a dedication to the Dauphin, took a new lease on life under the title _Le nouveau Mercure Galant_. Thereafter, it flourished for some years; the January-March number for 1677 was followed by monthly parts, and on May 15, 1678, the first supplementary (_Extraordinaire_) number was published, containing an article on fashions illustrated with fashion plates.[34] The magazine was addressed to the ladies, and, in addition to a modicum of news and war reports, it contained gossip, poetry, riddles, songs with their music, and correspondence with readers, some no doubt fictitious. It deserves full credit for being the first modern-style magazine. [Illustration: Figure 19.--LADY IN INFORMAL winter attire walks to her coach wearing a flowered gold-brocaded gown which has been caught back to show her embroidered petticoat bordered with ermine. She wears a black coif so that her hair will not be disarranged. Issued with the _Mercure Galant_, 1678. (Author’s collection.) {caption at end}] [Illustration: Figure 20.--INTERIOR OF A PARISIAN MILLINER’S SHOP. On display are accessories to men’s fashionable costume--breeches, scarves, gloves, and wigs. Detail from an engraving by J. Lepautre after J. Bérain. Reengraved from a small print in the _Extraordinaire_ issue of the _Mercure Galant_, March 1678. (Author’s collection.)]