Origin and Early History of the Fashion PlateNevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
History
Origin and Early History of the Fashion Plate
Nevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
Fashion -- History
The fashions for the winter 1677-78 (figs. 16-19) may be followed in the
pages of the _Mercure Galant_, but, since these four fashion plates were
also distributed separately, their connection with it has often been
overlooked. The same is true of the large engraving of the interior of a
milliner’s shop (fig. 20), the items in which were numbered and
described in the text of the _Mercure Galant_. Donneau de Visé depended
on trade support and took the opportunity to mention names wherever he
could. The new fabrics displayed below the shelves are distinguished by
letters; the one on the right (letter M), for example, is an Italian
yellow satin brocaded with white and violet. Other small figured
fabrics, he wrote, might be obtained away from the Palais “chez le Sieur
Baroy, au Cloître Saint Opportune,” and ribbons might be found from
Sieur le Gras in the Palais itself. The editor de Visé gives thanks to
M. Bérain (1637-1711), designateur ordinaire du Cabinet du Roy, and to
M. Lepautre (1618-82) for engraving the plates.
[Illustration: Figure 21.--SUMMER DRESS of a gentleman. He wears a
linen waistcoat garnished with lace, and a long wig (cf. fig. 18).
From the _Extraordinaire_ of the _Mercure Galant_, June 1678.
(Author’s collection.) {caption at end}]
The summer fashions for 1678 were illustrated in the next
_Extraordinaire_ number published on July 20 and represented by a
gentleman (fig. 21) and his lady (fig. 22). Details of these plates are
poor, and, although they are taken from the Dutch edition, the original
designer and engraver must have been far less competent than either
Bérain or Lepautre.
[Illustration: Figure 22.--SUMMER DRESS of a lady with a pleated
lace (_Point d’Angleterre_) petticoat. From the _Extraordinaire_ of
the _Mercure Galant_, June 1678. (Author’s collection.)
{caption at end}]
The winter fashions for 1678-79 were described in a long article in the
ordinary October number of the _Mercure Galant_, which, for the costume
historian, is of great importance, since it deals among other topics
with the evasion of the sumptuary legislation by the fashionable world.
The fashion plates are by a new artist and are reduced to two (figs. 23
and 24).
[Illustration: Figure 23.--GENTLEMAN in winter attire supposedly
just returned from the army. He ordered his gray cloth suit from
Sieur Gaultier, whose shop, “A la Couronne,” was located in the Rue
des Bourdonnais. From the _Mercure Galant_, October 1678. (Author’s
collection.)
{Habit d’Hyver 1678}]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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