Origin and Early History of the Fashion PlateNevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
History
Origin and Early History of the Fashion Plate
Nevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
Fashion -- History
Of even greater interest is the evidence of Vecellio’s relations with a
fashion house in Venice. In his general account of the housedresses of
the noble ladies of his time, he mentions the rich modern materials and
especially silk brocades of four and even of six colors, admirably
woven:[22]
Di queste opere si belle è stato in Venetia auttore M. Bartholomeo
Bontempele dal Calice, il quale alle volte con le mostre, ch’ egli
fa di questi drappi de’ quali lui è stato inventore, mostra la
grandezza dell’ingegno suo, la quale è accompagnata da una
incomparabile liberalità, e bontà, per ilche è molto amato dalla
nobiltà Venetiana, & da molti Principi d’Italia & in specie dal
Serenissimo Duca di Mantova. Nella sua buttiga dove molti Signori e
Principi mandano a fornirsi, & fino al serraglio del Gran Turco, si
veggono broccati à opera di tutte le sorte d’oro e di argento.
[Footnote 22: Translated, this reads: “The originator of these
beautiful fabrics in Venice is Master Bartholomew Bontempele at
the sign of the ‘Chalice.’ From time to time at exhibitions he
makes of these materials he has created, he shows the greatness of
his intellect, which is accompanied by an incomparable generosity
and kindness for which he is greatly loved by the Venetian
nobility, by many princes of Italy, and in particular by his
Serene Highness the Duke of Mantua. In his store, to which many
gentlemen and princes send orders, even the Seraglio of the Grand
Turk, are to be seen brocades worked in all manners of gold and
silver.” (1590 ed., folio 139.)]
It may seem strange that within 20 years of the Battle of Lepanto (1571)
Venetian fabrics were exported from Bontempele’s sign of “The Chalice”
to Constantinople to compete with the noted velvets of Brusa. After
describing the clothes of the best dressed merchants, Vecellio does not
hesitate to mention his friends Master Paolo, spice merchant and vendor
of the celebrated _Theriakon_ (known in England as Venice treacle), of
the sign of “The Ostrich,” and Bernadino Pillotto, seller of pictures
and other ornaments.
[Illustration: Figure 10.--FASHION PLATE depicting fanciful hair
style of a lady from Ferrara, by Christoph Krieger. From _Varie
acconciature di teste_, ca. 1590. (_Courtesy of Victoria & Albert
Museum, London._)
{FERARESE / AVDACE}]
At this time there were also woodcuts illustrating hairstyles. The exact
date of Christoph Krieger’s _Varie Acconciature di Teste_ (fig. 10) is
not known. While Vecellio had remarked that the Venetian ladies were
imitating the goddess Diana and surmounting their tresses with two
little curls like horns, Krieger made illustrations that were even more
fanciful. Each lady bears the name of a city and a distinguishing
quality or temperament, but there is no more reason to connect the
styles with local fashions than to believe that the ladies of Ferrara
were bold or those of Todi capricious.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account