Origin and Early History of the Fashion PlateNevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
History
Origin and Early History of the Fashion Plate
Nevinson, J. L. (John Lea)
Fashion -- History
[Illustration: Figure 11.--COURTIER FOLLOWING THE EDICT of 1633. He
has laid aside his lace collar and fine clothes. By Abraham Bosse,
1633. (_Courtesy of Museum of Fine Arts, Boston._)
{Le Courtisan suiuant L’Edict de l’annee 1633}
{additional caption at end}]
[Illustration: Figure 12.--LA GALERIE DU PALAIS. The fashionable
crowd throngs the milliners’ counters in the Palais Royal. By
Abraham Bosse, 1636. (_Courtesy of Museum of Fine Arts, Boston._)
{caption at end}]
Indeed, this series would not be considered in connection with fashion
plates were it not for a conversation in Ben Jonson’s _Cynthia’s
Revels_, first acted in 1600 by the Children of the Queen’s Chapel.
Philautia addresses her friend Phantaste (Act 2, scene 1):
Philautia: . . . What, have you changed your head-tire?
Phantaste: Yes, faith, the other was near the common, it had no
extraordinary grace; besides, I had worn it almost a day, in good
troth.
Philautia: I’ll be sworn, this is most excellent for the device, and
rare; ’tis after the Italian print we looked on t’other night.
This certainly suggests that one of the little eyases, perhaps even
Nathaniel Field or Salathiel Pavy, was wearing a fantastic wig designed
after one of the Krieger woodcuts.
In the early 17th century there was nothing published in northern Europe
that was closely related to the fashion trade. There are engravings of
costume figures such as the _Sieben Edelleute verschiedener Nation_ by
Willem Buytewech (Amsterdam, ca. 1614), which are charmingly drawn but,
as to costume, idealized and exaggerated.[23] The same criticism applies
to the later series by J. de St. Igny, especially in _Le Jardin de la
Noblesse_, and to Jacques Callot’s _La Noblesse_,[24] which depict
military and court dress with less caricature than most of this master’s
work. Among the engravings of Abraham Bosse, there is a series (fig. 11)
relating to the sumptuary law of 1633 by which Louis XIII, at the
instigation of Cardinal Richelieu, tried to curb the extravagance and
simplify the dress of the ladies and gentlemen of his court. This series
is worth mentioning as a record of the dress at this period, but neither
these engravings nor the better known “Galerie du Palais” (fig. 12) are,
strictly speaking, fashion plates which provide information for
dressmakers or wearers of clothes.[25]
In England, the engravings were of a rather different style. Dutch
prints of allegorical subjects were in vogue, and there are innumerable
sets of prints of the seven Ages of mankind, the five senses, the four
seasons, the continents, and the liberal arts, typified by real and
imaginary figures in all styles of dress. Jean Barrà’s figure “Seeing”
(fig. 13), with her looking glass and perspective glass, accompanied by
the farsighted eagle, is illustrated here mainly because of its
explanatory quatrain mentioning fashions.[26]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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