Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
In addition to these overwhelmingly dominant conifers already
specified, a few cottonwoods and swamp-maples and alders are
scattered in the jungle which borders the many little streams and
the large rivers like the Stickeen, Tahko, and Chilkat. Crab-apples
(_Pyrus rivularis_) form small groves on Prince of Wales Island,
where the beach is low and capped with good soil. Then on the
exposed, almost bare rocks of the western hilltops of the islands of
the archipelago, a scrub pine (_Pinus contorta_) is found; it also
grows in small clumps here and there just below the snow-line on
the mountains generally. Berries abound; the most important being
the sal-lal (_Gaultheria shallow_)—they are eaten fresh in great
quantities, and are also dried for use in winter—and another small
raspberry (_Rubus sp._), a currant (_Ribes sp._), and a large juicy
whortleberry. Of course these berries do not have the flavor or body
which we prize at home in our small fruits of similar character—but
up here they, in the absence of anything better or as good, are eaten
with avidity and relish, even by the white travellers who happen to
be around when the fruit is ripe; wild strawberries appear in
sheltered nooks; a wild gooseberry too is found, but it, like the
crab-apple of Prince of Wales Island, is not a favorite—it is drastic.
[Illustration: KOOTZNAHOO INLET
Characteristic view of scenery in the Sitkan Archipelago. The high
lands and peaks of Admiralty Island in the distance; Indians fishing
for halibut over rocky shoals in the foreground. An October sketch,
looking East from Chatham Straits]
We find in many places throughout this district highland moors,
which constitute the level plateau-summits of ridges and mountain
foothills; these areas are always sparsely timbered, covered by a
thick carpet of sphagnous heather, and literally brilliant in June
and July with the spangled radiance of an extensive variety of
flowering annuals and biennials. In these moorland mantles, which
are usually soaked full of moisture so as to be fairly spongy under
foot, cranberries flourish, of excellent flavor, and quite abundant,
though, compared with our choice Jersey and Cape Cod samples, they
are very small.
Certainly the scenery of this Venetian wilderness of Lower Alaska is
wonderful and unrivalled—the sounds, the gulfs, bays, fiörds, and
river-estuaries are magnificent sheets of water, and the snow-capped
peaks, which spring abruptly from their mirrored depths, give the
scene an ever-changing aspect. At places the ship seems to really be
at sea, then she enters a canal whose lofty walls of syenite, slate,
and granite shut out the light of day, and against which her rigging
scrapes, and the passenger’s hand may almost touch—a hundred thousand
sparkling streams fall in feathery cascades, adown their mural
heights, and impetuous streams beat themselves into white foam as
they leap either into the eternal depths of the Pacific or its deep
arms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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