Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
Probably no one point in the Sitkan archipelago is invested by nature
with a grander, gloomier aspect than is that region known as the
eastern shore of Prince Frederick’s Sound, where the mountains of
the mainland drop down abruptly to the seaside; here a spur of the
coast range, opposite Mitgon Islet, presents an unusually dreadful
appearance, for it rises to a vast height with an inclination
toward and over the water: the serrated, jagged summits are loaded
with an immense quantity of ice and snow, which, together with the
overhanging masses of rock, seems to cause its sea-laved base to
fairly totter under that stupendous weight overhead; the passage
beneath it, in the canoe of a traveller, is simply awful in its dread
suggestion, and few can refrain from involuntary shuddering as they
sail by and gaze upward.
A word about the Sitkan climate: you are not going to be very cold
here even in the most severe of winters, nor will you complain of
heat in the most favorable of summers; it maybe best epitomized by
saying in brief that the weather is such that you seldom ever find a
clean cake of ice frozen in the small fresh-water ponds six inches
thick; and you never will experience a summer warm enough to ripen
a head of oats. The first impression usually made upon the visitor
is that it is raining, raining all the time, not a pouring rain or
shower, then clearing up quickly, but a steady “driz-driz-drizzle”;
it rained upon the author in this manner seventeen consecutive
days in October, 1866, accompanied by winds from all points of the
compass. Therefore, by contrast, the relatively clear and dry months
of June and July in the archipelago are really delightful—clear and
pleasant in the sun, and cool enough for fires indoors—then you have
about eighteen hours of sunshine and six hours of twilight.
It is very seldom that the zero-point is ever recorded at tide-level
during winter here, though in January, 1874, it fell to —7° Fah.; the
thermometer at no time in the winter preceding registered lower than
11° above. A late blustering spring and an early, vigorous winter
often join hands over a very backward summer—about once or twice
every five years; these are the backward seasons; then the first
frost in the villages and tidal bottoms occurs about the 28th to 31st
of October, soon followed by the rain turning to snow, being as much
as three feet deep on the level at times. Severe thunderstorms, with
lightning, often take place during these violent snowfalls in the
winter—strange to say they are not heard or seen in the summer! Snow
and rain and sleet continue till the end of April—sometimes as late
as the 10th of May, before giving way to the enjoyable season of June
and July. Then again the mild winters are marked by no frost to speak
of—perhaps the coldest period will have been in November, little or
no snow, six or seven inches at the most, and much clear and bracing
weather.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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