Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
But the pomp and circumstance of the old castle—still the most
striking artificial feature now in all Alaska—will never wake to the
echoes of that proud and lavish hospitality which once reigned within
its walls, and when the flashing light in its lofty cupola carried
joy out over the dark waters of the sound to the hearts of inbound
mariners, who came safely into anchor by its gleaming—the elegant
breakfasts and farewell dinners given to favored guests, where the
glass, the plate, viands, wines and appointments were fit for regal
entertainment itself—all these have vanished, and naught but the
uneven, slowly settling floors, warped doors, and general mouldiness
of the present hour greets the inquiring eye. So heavy are its
timbers, and so faithfully were they keyed together, that in spite
of neglect, the ravages of decay and frequent vandalism, yet, in all
likelihood, an age will elapse ere the structure is removed by these
destroying agencies now so actively at work upon it. Moved by the
desire to preserve the salient features of this historical structure,
the author made, during one clear June day, a pre-Raphaelitic
drawing of it,[15] as his vessel swung at anchor under its shadows;
in it the reader will observe that the rocky eminence which it crowns
is covered to the very foundations and to the promenade cribbing
that surrounds them, with a thick growth of alders, stunted spruces,
and other indigenous vegetation. That walk around the castle, which
was artificially reared thereon, gives a most commanding view
of everything, over all objects in the town and Indian village,
and sweeps the landscape and the sound. Another picture from the
promenade walk under the flagstaff is also given, in order that a
faint effect may be conveyed to the reader of the exceeding beauty of
the island-studded Bay of Sitka. Descending and standing immediately
under the castle on the beach, to the right you have a perfect Alpine
scene as you look east along the pebbly shore to the living green
flanks of Mount Verstova, which carry your gaze up quickly over
rolling purplish curtains of fog to the snowy crest of it, and other
lofty crests _ad infinitum_, over far beyond. The little trading
stores on the left in this view hide the track so well known in Sitka
as the “Governor’s Walk,” for this is the only direction out to the
saw-mill in the middle distance, in which the earth lies smooth and
dry enough in all this archipelago for a clean mile-jaunt. These
still blue and green waters are alive with food-fishes, while the
dense coverts on the mountains harbor grouse and venison in lavish
supply; the oyster and the lobster you have not, but the clam and the
crab are here in overwhelming abundance and excellence. “Ah!” you
exclaim, “if it were not for this eternal rain, this everlasting damp
precipitation, how delightful this place would be to live in!”
FOOTNOTES:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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