Oxford (England) -- Description and travel; University of Oxford
Yonder they go, the worldly and the unworldly, the rich and poor, high
and low, proving that Oxford is one of the most democratic places in
Europe. The lax discipline that broadens the horizon of the inexpert
stranger is probably neither unwise nor unpremeditated. It is certainly
not inconsistent with the genius of a city whose very stones may be
supposed to have acquired an educative faculty, and a sweet presence
that is not to be put by. No fool ever went up without becoming at least
a coxcomb before he came down. In no place are more influences brought
to bear upon the mind, though it is emphatically a place where a man is
expected to educate himself. A man is apt to feel on first entering
Oxford, and still more on leaving it, that the beautiful city is
unfortunate in having but mortal minds to teach. There is a keen and
sometimes pathetic sense of a great music which one cannot wholly
follow, a light unapprehended, a wisdom not realised. Yet much is to be
guessed at or privily understood, when we behold St. Mary’s spire,
marvellously attended, and crowned, when the night is one sapphire, by
Cassiopeia. And the ghosts take shape--the cowled, mitred, mail-coated,
sceptred company of founders, benefactors, master-masons, scholars,
philosophers, and the later soldiers, poets, statesmen, and wits, and
finally some one, among the rich in influence of yesterday, who embodies
for one or another of us the sweetness of the place.
For me, when the first splendour of the city in my imagination has
somewhat grown dim, I see in the midst and on high, a room, little wider
than the thickness of its walls, which were part stone, part books; for
the books fitted naturally into the room, leaving spaces only for a bust
of Plato, a portrait of Sir Thomas Browne, a decanter, and a window
commanding sky and clouds and stars above an horizon of many towers.
There, too, is a great fire; a dowager brown teapot; with a pair of
slippers,--and to get into them was no whit less magical than into the
seven-league boots. I see a chair also, where a man might sit, curled,
with the largest folio and be hidden. I guess at the face of the man
under the folio. He was a small, shrunken, elvish figure, with a smile
like the first of June often budding in a face like the last of
December. In rest, that face was grim as if carved in limestone; in
expression, like waters in Spring. His curled, ebony hair had a singular
freshness and hint of vitality that gave the lie to his frail form and
husky voice. Cut in wood, the large nose and chin, peering forward,
would have served well as the figure-head of a merry ship, and to me he
seemed indeed to travel on such a ship towards a land that no other man
desires. His talk was ever of men, fighting, ploughing, singing; and how
fair women be;
[Illustration: THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH OF ST. MARY
The podium and part of one of the Doric columns of the Canterbury Gate
of Christ Church show at the extreme left of the picture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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