Palace and Mosque at Ukhaidir: A Study in Early Mohammadan ArchitectureBell, Gertrude Lowthian
History
Palace and Mosque at Ukhaidir: A Study in Early Mohammadan Architecture
Bell, Gertrude Lowthian
Iraq -- Antiquities; Mosques; Ukheidar
THE fortified palace of Ukhaiḍir stands in the desert about three hours’
journey to the south-east of the oasis of Shethâthâ and some seven
hours’ south-west of Kerbelâ. Its exact site has been fixed by Sir
William Willcocks’s survey and it is upon his map that mine is based
(Map 1). Ukhaiḍir is not far from the south-west end of the low ground
which Sir William Willcocks has called the Ḥabbâniyyeh depression. The
southern part of this depression covers an area of 146 square kilometres
at a level of 46 metres above the Persian Gulf;[9] at its lower end it
still contains a lake of brackish water, the lake of Abû Dibs, the
water-level of which is 19 metres above the Persian Gulf. The northern
part is occupied by the Ḥabbâniyyeh Lake. That the whole area was once
filled with escape water from the Euphrates is shown by the fact that it
is covered at a level of 25 metres above the Persian Gulf by a thick
belt of Euphrates shells; at this level it extends over an area of 1,200
square kilometres. The oases of Raḥḥâliyyeh and Shethâthâ are situated
upon the edge of this ancient reservoir. Between Shethâthâ and Ukhaiḍir
a shallow valley, the Wâdi al-Ubaiḍ, makes its way up from the
south-west to the lake of Abû Dibs. I have been told that after heavy
winter rain a stream has been known to flow down the ghadîr, the
water-course, which winds through the sand and stones of the valley bed.
Whether this be true or no, a well of good sweet water exists in the
Wâdi al-Ubaiḍ, fed, in all probability, by a spring, like the famous
water of Muḥaiwir in the Wâdi Ḥaurân, or the wells of ‘Asîleh in the
Wâdi Burdân. At no other point in the immediate vicinity of Ukhaiḍir is
fresh water to be obtained; whether you dig within the palace walls, or
without, the water, if water there be, is brackish and unfit to drink.
To the north of the Wâdi al-Ubaiḍ the ground opposite Ukhaiḍir, sloping
gradually down to the Ḥabbâniyyeh depression, is intersected by gulleys,
narrow and steep, cutting through hillocks of gypsum, and among these
hillocks is the small ruin which the Arabs call Qṣair. Here, I take it,
the gypsum was obtained for the mortar which binds the masonry of the
palace, and its good qualities are attested by the excellent
preservation of wall and vault until this day. I have not visited the
quarries, but the Arabs told me that the stone had been brought from a
distance of about an hour to the south of Ukhaiḍir, where there are
traces of working ‘taḥt al-arḍ’, below the ground--not in a hill-side.
Near the quarries there is said to be a well of good but not abundant
water; Shakhârîz is the name of the well. It is built of stone. Behind
it, some three hours’ journey from Ukhaiḍir, there is a low line of
hills, the Djebel Ḍaba’. From the castle walls the long levels of the
desert spread out invitingly to the hills, and I would gladly have gone
thither, but I had not time to spare during either of my visits.
Ukhaiḍir does not reckon security among its many charms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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