Palace and Mosque at Ukhaidir: A Study in Early Mohammadan ArchitectureBell, Gertrude Lowthian
History
Palace and Mosque at Ukhaidir: A Study in Early Mohammadan Architecture
Bell, Gertrude Lowthian
Iraq -- Antiquities; Mosques; Ukheidar
The plentiful
sweet water of the well in the Wâdi al-Ubaiḍ makes it a trysting-place
for raiding parties, and after four or five days’ sojourn it is best to
be gone, lest the news that a foreigner is lodged within the palace
walls should run too temptingly among the tribes. In 1911, the date of
my last visit, I came to Ukhaiḍir from Shethâthâ, having ridden straight
across the desert from Ramâdi, skirting the Ḥabbâniyyeh Lake and the
east side of the Ḥabbâniyyeh depression. When I left I did not follow
the usual way, by Abû Dibs to Kerbelâ, but rode almost due east, to the
foot of a cliff of sand and rock, which is the western limit of a flat
desert plateau that stretches eastward to the Hindiyyeh. An abrupt rise
of this nature is called in colloquial Arabic a ṭâr.[10] From Ukhaiḍir
the ground dropped gradually. After two hours’ riding (about six miles)
we reached the khabrâ of Wizikh. A khabrâ is a hollow bottom where rain
water lies and stagnates till it evaporates. The khabrâ of Wizikh, which
was dry and sandy, appeared to stretch along the foot of the ṭâr,
northward to Abû Dibs, and also southwards. My Arab guide, a sheikh of
the Zaqârît, which is a sub-tribe of the Shammar, informed me that there
were wells of brackish water in the khabrâ further to the south, the
Biyâr Slâm. The khabrâ was about a fifth of a mile wide. At the further
side we rode up the sandy gulleys of the ṭâr and in ten minutes reached
a well, the Bir Sbai’i, the water of which was brackish but drinkable.
From here to the Hindiyyeh there is no water of any kind. Another ten
minutes brought us to the summit of the ṭâr, whence we could see
Ukhaiḍir on the one hand and the tower of Mudjḍah on the other. The
bearings here were as follows: Ukhaiḍir (south-east angle of the castle)
300°, Mudjḍah 97°, central point of the Djebel Ḍaba’ 244°. Mudjḍah is a
solitary tower without any provision for the storage of water, or any
ruins round it. I think it can have served no other purpose than that of
a landmark on the line of the caravan track, which must have passed this
way from the great city of Kûfah to the oasis of Shethâthâ, or ‘Ain
al-Tamr, to give it its earlier name. From the top of the ṭâr to the
modern Kerbelâ-Nedjef road the desert is absolutely flat and
featureless, and we ourselves came near to losing our way across it. The
existence of a former caravan track across this waste is assured by the
ruined khân of ‘Aṭshân, half-way between Mudjḍah and the modern Khân
Ḥamâd.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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