Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1)Trollope, Frances Milton
History
Paris and the Parisians in 1835 (Vol. 1)
Trollope, Frances Milton
Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I often go there; yet I can hardly understand what the charm can be in
the little building itself, or in the quiet mass performed there
without music, which can so attract me. It is at no great distance
from our apartments in the Rue de Provence, and a walk thither just
occupies the time before breakfast. I once went there on a Sunday
morning with some of my family; but then it was full--indeed so
crowded, that it was impossible to see across the building, or feel
the beauty of its elegant simplicity. The pale figures of the royal
dead, the foully murdered, were no longer the principal objects; and
though I have no doubt that all present were right loyal spirits, with
whose feelings I am well enough disposed to sympathise, yet I could
not read each saddened brow, and attach a romance to it, as I never
fail to do during my week-day visits.
There are two ladies, for example, whom I constantly see there, ever
in the same place, and ever in the same attitude. The elder of these I
feel perfectly sure must have passed her youth near Marie Antoinette,
for it is at the foot of her statue that she kneels--or I might almost
say that she prostrates herself, for she throws her arms forward on a
cushion that is placed before her, and suffers her aged head to fall
upon them, in a manner that speaks more sorrow than I can describe.
The young girl who always accompanies and kneels beside her may, I
think, be her granddaughter. They have each of them "_Gentlewoman
born_" written on every feature, in characters not to be mistaken. The
old lady is very pale, and the young one looks as if she were not
passing a youth of gaiety and enjoyment.
There is a grey-headed old man, too, who is equally constant in his
attendance at this melancholy chapel. He might sit as a model for a
portrait of _le bon vieux temps_; but he has a stern though sad
expression of countenance, which seems to be exactly a masculine
modification of what is passing at the heart and in the memory of the
old lady at the opposite side of the chapel. These are figures which
send the thoughts back for fifty years; and seen in the act of
assisting at a mass for the souls of Louis Seize and his queen,
produce a powerful effect on the imagination.
I have ventured to describe this melancholy spot, and what I have seen
there, the more particularly because, easy as it is of access, you
might go to Paris a dozen times without seeing it, as in fact hundreds
of English travellers do. One reason for this is, that it is not
opened to the public gaze as a show, but can only be entered during
the hour of prayer, which is inconveniently early in the day.
As this sad and sacred edifice cannot justly be considered as a public
building, the elevation of the tri-coloured flag upon it every
fête-day might, I think, have been spared.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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