Partakers of plenty : $b A study of the first ThanksgivingDeetz, James
History
Partakers of plenty : $b A study of the first Thanksgiving
Deetz, James
Thanksgiving Day -- History; United States -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
The “flesh” pies Best referred to would have in England been filled
with old chicken, hare, or pigeon meat, tenderized by hours of
simmering and then baking. Plymouth, however, had a spectacular
substitute: venison. This was the Elizabethan’s chief culinary status
symbol, seldom eaten by ordinary farmers but continually craved. Kept
in deer parks by the gentry, “... venison in England [was] neither
bought nor sold, as in other countries, but maintained only for
the pleasure of the owner and his friends.” The five deer donated
by Massasoit were a great luxury. Served up in corn-meal venison
“pasties,” they gave the feast an aristocratic aura the Plymouth
farmers could never have foreseen, not having the guns or skills
necessary to bring down a deer regularly. Ironically, venison soon
became a symbol to Englishmen of New England’s natural bounty. A more
realistic choice would have been the ducks and geese, which they could
and did bring down in droves with their fowling pieces.
[Illustration: Men shooting]
[Illustration: Men wrestling]
[Illustration: Indian eating]
Pudding was the Harvest Home’s most typical dish, composed as it was of
the cereals and fruits that had just been ingathered. A special harvest
version called frumenty (or furmenty) became synonymous with the
harvest feast itself and elicited the lines, “The furmenty pot welcomes
home the harvestcart.” John Josselyn, a later visitor to New England,
described a New England furmenty made with a variety of oats brought
over from East Anglia by the Puritans (although whole-grain wheat,
barley, or corn were just as suitable):
“They dry it in an oven, or in a pan upon the fire, then beat it small
in a mortar ... they put into a bottle [two quarts] of milk about ten
or twelve spoonsfuls of this meal, so boil it leisurely stirring of it
every foot, lest it burn too; when it is almost boiled enough, they
hand the kettle up higher and let it stew only, in short time it will
thicken like a custard; they season it with a little sugar and spice,
and so serve it to the table in deep basons.”
It was an expensive dish. To make up for their lack of sugar, the
Pilgrims would have added many of the wild fruits mentioned by Winslow:
grapes, berries, and plums. Though water can be used in place of milk
for frumenty, milk was the preferred ingredient. An available milk
supply might have existed, if goats were among the livestock brought
on the =Mayflower=. While there is no specific mention of any animals
being brought on that first ship, Winslow’s statement that “if we have
once but kine, horses and sheep ... men might live as contented here as
in any part of the world” suggests that goats and pigs may well have
crossed the Atlantic with the Pilgrims.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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