Partakers of plenty : $b A study of the first ThanksgivingDeetz, James
History
Partakers of plenty : $b A study of the first Thanksgiving
Deetz, James
Thanksgiving Day -- History; United States -- Social life and customs -- To 1775
The Pilgrims also had an American pudding—which later, encased in a
pastry crust, became the Thanksgiving dish pumpkin pie. In October
1621, lacking the wheat or rye flour to make a pie crust, they probably
cooked pumpkins as a side dish. Josselyn described this
“ancient New-England standing dish ... the housewives manner is to
slice them when ripe, and cut them into dice, and so fill a pot with
them of two or three gallons, and stew them upon a gentle fire a
whole day, and as they sink, they fill again with fresh pompions, not
putting any liquor to them; and when it is stew’d enough, it will look
like bak’d apples; this they dish, putting butter to it, and a little
vinegar (with some spice, and ginger, etc.) which makes it tart liken
an apple, and so serve it up to be eaten with fish or flesh.”
Cakes and ale ended the feast. The cakes were made of corn—roasted,
pounded in homemade mortar and pestle, mixed into a paste with water,
and fried on a griddle into thin, crisp “pan” cakes. Crumbly and dry,
they complemented the strong, sweet ale that was drunk with them.
Ale and hop-flavored beer were fermented from malted (germinated and
roasted) barley at home. The alcohol content ranged from 4 to 8 per
cent—the stronger was brought out for holidays like Harvest Home. The
Pilgrims’ first ale and beer were brought over on the =Mayflower= and
soon ran short. So precious were they that, when Bradford was sick and
asked the sailors for a small can (quart) of beer, they replied that
even if he “were their own father he should have none.” So water was
drunk throughout the summer of 1621 but was considered an “enemy of
health, cause of disease, consumer of natural vigour, and the bodies of
men.” The “indifferent good barley” of August probably became October’s
strong harvest beer. It would not last long, but they were fortunate to
have it.
The food at this first American Harvest Home was notable then, “not
for variety of messes [dishes], but for solid sufficiency.” Like the
Pilgrims themselves, it was rooted in the good earth and culture of
yeoman England. And after the initial shock of transplantation both the
people and their food grew strong in their new home. They recognized
the significance of what had been done, and, venison pie in one hand
and leather mug of ale in the other, each celebrated with gusto the
achievement. It was the best of times.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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