Seen from the main road--for nearer approach is forbidden--Thirlmere is
a scene of great beauty. The placid lake lies sleeping in its hollow,
and beyond, up springs the noble mass of the mighty Helvellyn, furrowed
with watercourses, jagged with scaurs and grey outcrops of rock, with
wide stretches of bracken and sweeps of green grass. Then, again, in
full sight, are Saddleback and, away to the north, Skiddaw; the latter
has a fleecy cloud streaming from its summit, much, we fancy, as the
smoke must have streamed away on that famous Armada night when
"Skiddaw saw the fire that burned on Gaunt's embattled pile,
And the red glare of Skiddaw roused the burghers of Carlisle."
Some distance farther we pause to climb up to the Justice Stone, a huge
flat-topped boulder, a famous landmark, and a stone around which many
stories have gathered. It is said that in plague times this was a spot
to which came people from the plague-ridden town of Keswick, a few
miles ahead. They brought money in their hands and laid it on the
Justice Stone, and retired; then the pedlars and dealers, bringing
goods from the outside world, came up to the stone, laid down the
goods, and took up the money. In this way business was done, and yet
the outsiders did not come into contact with the plague-stricken
citizens. The Justice Stone was also the gathering-place for the
shepherds of the neighbouring valleys. Here they met to exchange
strayed sheep, and deal fairly with each other, and thus the name
sprung up. The stone was used for this purpose until almost within
living memory.
On we go to Keswick, and here we are in the country of Derwentwater, a
splendid sheet which many hail as Queen of the Lakes. It is a most
picturesque lake, dotted with beautiful islands and encircled by
mountain heights. Its islands are real islands--not mere snags of rock
thrusting themselves above the water, but sweeps of level, well-wooded
land. On one of them, Lord's Isle, once dwelt the Earls of
Derwentwater. The last Earl was one of the Jacobite leaders of "the
Fifteen" when in 1715 the Old Pretender tried to regain the Stuart
crown. The rebellion failed, and the Earl was beheaded on Tower Hill.
His lands were seized, his mansion fell into ruins, and his family
became extinct.
Not far from Lord's Isle are the famous Falls of Lodore, sung by the
poet Southey. His description does not hold in dry weather, but after
a great fall of rain his words prove to have no exaggeration about
them. Down from the moorland the stream comes rushing and leaping from
ledge to ledge of rock with clouds of spray, a tumultuous thundering of
leaping water, and all the force and fury painted in the well-known
poem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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