Peeps at many lands: WalesWilmot-Buxton, E. M. (Ethel Mary)
History
Peeps at many lands: Wales
Wilmot-Buxton, E. M. (Ethel Mary)
Wales -- Description and travel
Meantime the market-women have spread out their goods--poultry, butter,
eggs, and flowers--on the market-stalls in a picturesque fashion
enough. Many of the women themselves are worth the attention of an
artist, with their strong brown faces, black crisp hair, and very dark
blue eyes, “put in with a smutty finger,” as someone has well described
them.
Fifty years ago you would have seen them dressed in short red skirts,
buckled shoes, crossed bodices, and tall steeple-crowned hats worn
over caps; but these, unfortunately, have vanished.
The men--farmers or cattle-drovers for the most part--differ in face
more than they do in name. To English ears everyone seems to be called
either David Mor-r-gan (with a beautiful roll to the “r”) or Owen
Jones. But to the careful eye the difference between the two original
races is clear. The one is still short, smaller in build, and very
dark-haired; the other is tall, ruddy, with long loose limbs and fiery
red hair.
Borrow, whose amusing description of his walks in “Wild Wales” you will
like some day to read, thus describes a fair at Llangollen some fifty
years ago, and from what one knows of these country-towns, one would
not expect to find things very different to-day.
“The fair,” he says, “was held in and near a little square in the
south-east quarter of the town. It was a little bustling fair, attended
by plenty of people from the country. A dense row of carts extended
from the police-station half across the space. These carts were filled
with pigs, and had stout cord nettings drawn over them, to prevent the
animals escaping.
“By the sides of these carts the principal business of the fair
appeared to be going on--there stood the owners, male and female,
higgling with Llangollen men and women who came to buy. The pigs
were all small, and the price given seemed to vary from eighteen to
twenty-five shillings. Those who bought pigs generally carried them
away in their arms, and then there was no little diversion. Dire was
the screaming of the porkers, yet the purchaser always knew how to
manage his bargain, keeping the left arm round the body of the swine,
and with the right hand fast gripping the ear. Some few were led away
by strings.
“There were some Welsh cattle, small, of course, and the purchasers
of these seemed to be Englishmen--tall, burly fellows in general, far
exceeding the Welsh in height and size....
“Now and then a big fellow made an offer, and held out his hand for
a little Celtic grazier to give it a slap--a cattle bargain being
concluded by a slap of the hand--but the Welshman generally turned away
with a half-resentful exclamation.
“There were a few horses and ponies in a street leading into the
fair--I saw none sold, however....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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