The Last Judgment--The Music--Gregory the Sixteenth, 312 LETTER XLV. Byron's Statue--The Borghese Palace--Society of Rome, 316 LETTER XLVI. The Climate--Falls of Terni--The Clitumnus--A Lesson not Lost--Thrasimene--Florence--Florentine Women--Need of an Ambassador, 320 LETTER XLVII. Chat in the Ante-Chamber--Love in High Life--Ball at the Palazzo Pitti--The Grand Duke--An Italian Beauty--An English Beauty, 329 LETTER XLVIII. Oxen of Italy--Vallombrosa--A Convent Dinner--Vespers at Vallombrosa--The Monk's Estimate of Women--Milton's Room-- Florence, 336 LETTER XLIX. The House of Michael Angelo--Fiesole--San Miniato--Christmas Eve--Amusing Scenes in Church, 344 LETTER L. Penitential Processions--The Carlist Refugees--The Miracle of Rain--The Miraculous Picture--Giovanni Di Bologna--Andrea Del Sarto, 350 LETTER LI. The Entertainments of Florence--A Peasant Beauty--The Morality of Society--The Italian Cavalier--The Features of Society, 357 LETTER LII. Artists and the French Academy--Beautiful Scenery--Sacred Woods of Bolsena, 363 LETTER LIII. The Virtuoso of Viterbo--Robberies--Rome as Fancied--Rome as Found, 367 LETTER LIV. The Fountain of Egeria--The Pontine Marshes--Mola--The Falernian Hills--The Doctor of St. Agatha--The Queen of Naples, 372 LETTER LV. St. Peter's--The Fountains--The Obelisk--The Forum--Its Memories--The Cenci--Claude's Pictures--Fancies Realized--The Last of the Dorias--A Picture by Leonardo Da Vinci--Palace of the Cesars--An Hour on the Palatine, 379 LETTER LVI. Roman Eyes versus Feet--Vespers at Santa Trinita--Roman Baths--Baths of Titus--Shelley's Haunt, 390 LETTER LVII. The Tomb of the Scipios--The Early Christians--The Tomb of Metella--Fountain of Egeria--Changed Aspect of Rome, 396 LETTER LVIII. Palm Sunday--A Crowd--The Miserere--A Judas--The Washing of Feet--The Dinner, 402 LETTER LIX. The Protestant Cemetery--Shelley's Grave--Beauty of the Place--Keats--Dr. Bell, 409 LETTER LX. Audience with the Pope--Humility and Pride in Contrast--The Miserere at St. Peter's--Italian Moonlight--Dancing at the Coliseum, 415