LETTER LXI. Easter Sunday--The Pope's Blessing--Illumination of St. Peter's--Florentine Sociability--A Marriage of Convenience, 421 LETTER LXII. The Correggio--Austrians in Italy--The Cathedral at Milan-- Guercino's Hagar--Milanese Coffee, 427 LETTER LXIII. Still in Italy--Isola Bella--Ascent of the Simplon--Farewell to Italy--An American--Descent of the Simplon, 433 LETTER LXIV. The Cretins--The Goitre--First Sight of Lake Leman--Mont Blanc--June in Geneva--The Winkelreid, 440 LETTER LXV. American and Genevese Steamers--Lilies of the Valley--A Frenchman's Apology--Genevese Women--Voltaire's Room, 446 LETTER LXVI. The Jura--Arrival at Morez--Lost my Temper--National Characteristics--Politeness versus Comfort, 452 LETTER LXVII. Lafayette's Funeral--Crossing the Channel--An English Inn-- Mail Coaches and Horses--A Gentleman Driver--A Subject for Madame Trollope, 458 LETTER LXVIII. First Dinner in London--The King's Birth-day--A Handsome Street--Introduction to Lady Blessington--A Chat about Bulwer--The D'Israeli's--Contrast of Criticism--Countess Guiccioli--Lady Blessington--An Apology, 465 LETTER LXIX. An Evening at Lady Blessington's--Fonblanc--Tribute to American Authors--A Sketch of Bulwer--Bulwer's Conversation--An Author his own Critic, 476 LETTER LXX. Ascot Races--Handsome Men--The Princess Victoria--Charles Lamb--Mary Lamb--Lamb's Conversation--The Breakfast at Fault, 483 LETTER LXXI. A Dinner at Lady Blessington's--D'Israeli, the Younger--The Author of Vathek--Mr. Beckford's Whims--Irish Patriotism--The Effect of Eloquence, 491 LETTER LXXII. The Opera House--What Books will pay for--English Beauty--A Belle's Criticism on Society--Celebrities, 498 LETTER LXXIII. Breakfast with Proctor--A Story of Hazlitt--Procter as a Poet--Impressions of the Man, 504 LETTER LXXIV. Moore's Dread of Criticism--Moore's Love of Rank--A generous Offer nobly Refused--A Sacrifice to Jupiter--The Election of Speaker--Miss Pardoe--Prices of Books, 509 LETTER LXXV. Dinner at Lady Blessington's--Scott--The Italians--Scott's Mode of Living--O'Connell--Grattan--Moore's Manner of Talking--Lady Blessington's Tact--Moore's Singing--A Curious Incident--The Maid Metamorphosed, 517 PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY. LETTER I.