Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in EuropeWillis, Nathaniel Parker
General
Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe
Willis, Nathaniel Parker
Europe -- Description and travel
This is the beginning of the ancient Appian Way, and, a little
farther on, sunk in the side of a hill near the road, is the beautiful
doric tomb of the Scipios. We alighted at the antique gate, a kind of
portico, with seats of stone beneath, and reading the inscription,
"_Sepulchro degli Scipioni_" mounted by ruined steps to the tomb. A
boy came out from the house, in the vineyard above, with candles, to
show us the interior, but, having no curiosity to see the damp cave
from which the sarcophagi have been removed (to the museum), we sat
down upon a bank of grass opposite the chaste façade, and recalled to
memory the early-learnt history of the family once entombed within.
The edifice (for it is more like a temple to a river-nymph or a dryad
than a tomb) was built by an ancestor of the great Scipio Africanus,
and here was deposited the noble dust of his children. One feels, in
these places, as if the improvisatore's inspiration was about him--the
fancy draws, in such vivid colors, the scenes that have passed where
he is standing. The bringing of the dead body of the conqueror of
Africa from Rome, the passing of the funeral train beneath the
portico, the noble mourners, the crowd of people, the eulogy of
perhaps some poet or orator, whose name has descended to us--the air
seems to speak, and the gray stones of the monument against which the
mourners of the Scipios have leaned, seem to have had life and
thought, like the ashes they have sheltered.
We drove on to the _Catacombs_. Here, the legend says, St. Sebastian
was martyred and the modern church of St. Sebastiano stands over the
spot. We entered the church, where we found a very handsome young
capuchin friar, with his brown cowl and the white cord about his
waist, who offered to conduct us to the catacombs. He took three
wax-lights from the sacristy, and we entered a side door, behind the
tomb of the saint, and commenced a descent of a long flight of stone
steps. We reached the bottom and found ourselves upon damp ground,
following a narrow passage, so low that I was compelled constantly to
stoop, in the sides of which were numerous small niches of the size of
a human body. These were the tombs of the early Christian martyrs. We
saw near a hundred of them. They were brought from Rome, the scene of
their sufferings, and buried in these secret catacombs by the small
church of, perhaps, the immediate converts of St. Paul and the
apostles. What food for thought is here, for one who finds more
interest in the humble traces of the personal followers of Christ, who
knew his face and had heard his voice, to all the splendid ruins of
the works of the persecuting emperors of his time! Most of the bones
have been taken from their places, and are preserved at the museum, or
enclosed in the rich sarcophagi raised to the memory of the martyrs in
the Catholic churches. Of those that are left we saw one. The niche
was closed by a thin slab of marble, through a crack of which the monk
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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