Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
“essential (or volatile) oils” is due to the fact that the volatile
vegetable aromatic substances cause a stain on paper similar to that
produced by oils and fats; but the stain made by the former disappears
spontaneously after some time, while that due to true oils and fats
persists. The disappearance of the stain depends on the evaporation
of the vegetable aromatic substances—a quality not possessed by fats.
Hence the volatile vegetable aromatic substances, in contradistinction
from non-volatile fixed or fatty oils, have been designated as
essential or volatile or ethereal oils. Inasmuch as the latter terms
are the ordinary trade names for these substances, we are compelled to
retain them despite their incorrectness. The French name for essential
oils is _essences_; “essence de lavande,” for instance, is the French
name for essential oil of lavender, and not for an alcoholic solution
of the oil, as might be inferred from the usually accepted meaning of
the English terms “essence of lavender,” “essence of peppermint,” etc.,
which mean solutions of these essential oils in alcohol.
As the localities where the raw materials—that is, the aromatic
plants—are cultivated on a large scale naturally constitute the places
of manufacture of essential oils, we find in southern France and
in England the most extensive factories devoted exclusively to the
preparation of perfumes. In the countries named, a favorable influence
is exerted, too, by their situation near the sea, as well as by their
trade with tropical lands from which additional aromatic plants are
imported.
We have stated above that the manufacture of essential oils forms
almost a monopoly in France and England; but there is no doubt that
this country (the United States) likewise possesses many localities
favorable to the cultivation of certain aromatic plants and the
preparation of essential oils from them, so that this branch of
industry could be carried on at a profit. For this reason we have in
our descriptions devoted some attention to the conditions of growth
required by such plants as might be raised here. We even find that some
advantages are derived from the hot-house cultivation of some tropical
plants.
An exact knowledge of the chemical properties of a substance is in all
cases the first and fundamental condition for its preparation; it would
appear necessary, therefore, that we should endeavor to gain complete
information about the nature of vegetable aromatic substances before we
enter upon the description of the various methods of their preparation.
THE CHEMICAL CONSTITUTION OF VEGETABLE AROMATIC SUBSTANCES.
The sources of the odors derived from the vegetable kingdom can be
divided, as stated above, into so-called essential oils, balsams,
gum-resins or soft resins, and hard resins. Since the latter bear a
certain relation to the essential oils from which they are formed
through chemical combinations, we must consider them first.
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