Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The flowers, the fruits and their rinds, or even the wood of some
plants form the receptacles of essential oils; if they are liquid they
are called essential oils _par excellence_; if they are firm they
are called camphors. Besides, there are intermediate states between
them: oil of rose is always viscid and solidifies even at temperatures
considerably above the freezing-point of water (see under Oil of Rose).
The bodies which are generally called essential oils are usually
mixtures of a hydrocarbon with an oxygenated body, or an unchanged oil
with another which has become altered by the influence of the oxygen of
the air—a condition to which we shall recur later on. With reference
to their elementary composition, essential oils may be divided into two
groups:
1. Non-oxygenated essential oils.
2. Oxygenated essential oils.
The non-oxgenated essential oils consist only of two elements—carbon
and hydrogen; the other group, as the name indicates, contains a third
element in chemical combination, and consist of carbon, hydrogen, and
oxygen. Most of the essential oils of the first group have the same
chemical composition: C_{10}H_{16} (10 atoms of carbon combined with
16 atoms of hydrogen). Despite the like chemical composition, all the
essential oils display different physical qualities; they vary in
density, in refractive power, in boiling-point (often by many degrees),
and, a matter of the greatest importance for our purposes, in their
odor. We may state at once that but few essential oils can be said
to have a pleasant odor; that of most of them is even disagreeable
and narcotic to the olfactory nerves; it is only after the oil has
been extremely diluted that the odor begins to become pleasant and to
resemble that of the plant from which the oil was derived.
According to their physical qualities, essential oils may be described
as fluids of a specific narcotic odor, colorless but very refractive,
and easily inflammable. Only a few essential oils can be produced
in such a state of purity as to appear perfectly colorless; usually
they are more or less dark yellow in color, and some even possess a
characteristic tint; thus oil of acacia is reddish-brown, oils of
rose and absinth are green, oil of chamomile is blue. But a simple
experiment will show that the color is not inseparably connected with
the oil, for certain tinted oils can be obtained perfectly colorless
by being distilled with another, less volatile oil which retains the
coloring matter.
The boiling-point of essential oils is in general very high —between
160° and 288° of the centigrade thermometer (C.), or 320° to 550°
F. The fact that we smell the essential oils in aromatic plants so
distinctly despite their high boiling-point is an evidence of their
exceedingly strong influence on the olfactory nerves.
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